Sinking into One of Ontario's Best Beach Towns

Ice cream in hand, soft afternoon sun on my face, I emerge onto Port Stanley's spritely main beach. It had been a long winter in Southern Ontario, followed by a stubborn spring, but at long last, board-short and bikini weather finally landed in this Blue Flag beach town. Having arrived in early May, I got to know a quieter Port Stanley while waiting out the cool rains, the version that local fishermen, shopkeepers, and retirees live with much of the year. But now, with the arrival of cottagers and weekend sunseekers, I am swept up in beach-day nostalgia, vintage sidewalk sales, queues for matinee plays at the Port Stanley Festival Theatre, and beer-swigging cover bands emanating from the patios of The Legion, Pierside Pub, and Fire Hall Market.

Even when the parking lots are full and the lines for Mackie's concessions are long, Port Stanley has a laid-back feel. But come for a visit on a random Tuesday, or take your car up Lake Erie's shoreline for an hour in either direction, and you'll get an even better appreciation for small-town charms and nearby natural oases. Allow me to take you on a vicarious vacation (soon to be a real vacation, hopefully) in Port Stanley: one of Ontario's best beach towns.

Lay of the Land

Port Stanley is a waterfront enclave within the Municipality of Central Elgin, Ontario, itself just south of St. Thomas and about 40 kilometers south of London. Situated midway along Lake Erie's northern shore, Port Stanley is similarly accessible to visitors coming from Windsor and the Greater Toronto Area (a little less than 200 kilometers and a little more than 200 kilometers, respectively, in opposite directions). Regardless of your point of departure, upon arrival, motorists will be funneled onto Bridge Street via one of three thoroughfares.

Split into East and West hemispheres by Kettle Creek, Port Stanley maintains a balance between its businesses and beaches. Drop down Main Street, and you'll find a collection of home goods and clothing boutiques alongside historic inns and the weekend fish market. After a few blocks, Little Beach emerges. Conversely, drive down Williams Street, and you'll spot a few pub-grub joints en route to the spacious Port Stanley Beach, aka Long Beach, aka Main Beach.

While crossing between hemispheres, you might find yourself held up at the King George VI Lift Bridge. Once every half an hour, it raises its green steel wings to accommodate the sailboats and larger vessels coming to and from the inland marinas. Don't fret, this will give you a chance to scout Bridge Street's dual coffee shops, smell the freshly made waffle cones from Broderick's ice cream parlor, and soak up the good vibes as people hover around Glover Park to watch the bridge's ritual.

Whichever segment you feel drawn to, it is best to claim a spot in one of Port Stanley's many paid parking lots and simply hoof it from there. This town is super walkable and evenly spaced with attractions, so there's no need to tether to your initial anchor point or parking-lot-hop.

Brief History of Port Stanley

Settled in the early 1800s, Port Stanley was named in honor of Lord Edward George Stanley, then 14th Earl of Derby and later Prime Minister of the United Kingdom, who visited nearby Port Talbot at the same time. Fun fact: his son and Governor General of Canada, Frederick Stanley, was an ice hockey enthusiast and the donor of the first Stanley Cup in 1893.

Thanks to ferry service to/from Buffalo, New York, and a large sheltered harbor, Port Stanley quickly became an important Port of Entry and shipping hub. The latter function was further aided by the arrival of the London and Port Stanley Railway in 1856. At its peak, the L&PS carried more than a million passengers per year. Though traditional service ceased in 1965, a portion of the tracks was rebooted in 1983 in the spirit of narrated scenic tours (and seasonal Murder Mystery dinners!). This novel attraction is now known as Port Stanley Terminal Rail.

With the establishment of the Stanley Beach Casino in 1909 (which later became a dance hall known as the Stork Club) and its accompanying Ferris wheel, roller coaster, and outdoor theatre, Port Stanley earned the nickname "Coney Island of the Great Lakes." By the following year, "Port," as locals now refer to it, was home to no less than 22 fishing tugs, many of which still haul in perch and pickerel (walleye) for sale at Golem Fisheries and practically all of the local restaurants.

Beaches

While its legacy as a fishing village lives on, Port Stanley is, first and foremost, a beach town. Given that Lake Erie is the shallowest and southernmost of the Great Lakes, it is also the warmest to swim in. Yes, this can create issues with bacteria and algae (which we'll address later). Still, Port Stanley Beach has held Ontario's Blue Flag status for the past 15 years, making it one of the cleanest and best-managed stretches of public sand on Lake Erie. Not every day will be a designated swim day (especially following heavy rain), but the beach is always open for sunbathing and volleyball.

Port Stanley Beach is the primary crowd-pleaser, not only because of its size, but also because of its adjacent amenities. But don't forget about Little Beach on the east side of Kettle Creek, or Erie Rest Beach west of some private properties. Both of these beaches have their own little charms. You'll find morning yoga groups, couples taking wedding photos, introverts enjoying their slice of serenity, and dramatic cliffs soaring off into the periphery. The chef's kiss for all three beaches is the presence of ample public bathrooms. Nothing wrecks a beach day like having to hunt for facilities or awkwardly exploiting an unpatronized restaurant.

If you're like me in that you enjoy being at the beach but can't just sit around all day, then you'll get a kick out of walking the Port Stanley Pier. This leg-stretch affords a full view of Long Beach in one direction, and a panoramic view of Lake Erie in the other — equally as pretty when it's glassy or kicking up white caps. Just watch out for the Canada geese hovering around Hofhuis Park. They're mostly cool, but if you get too close to their fluffy yellow youngins, then Mama Goose might show you her teeth-lined tongue.

Shops

Port Stanley's commercial core is aligned along the upside-down hockey-stick shape of Main Street and Bridge Street. Main is all about the bespoke clothing shops and artsy goodies, thanks to The Chique Shack, Frankly Scarlett, Rhumba, Studio Style, Joshua & Company, and the Art Emporium.

Bridge Street sprinkles in compliments in the form of Lake House Books and The Candy Gram. You might also encounter a weekend pop-up shop, as I did with Dugout Vintage (thanks for the sweet Patagonia plaid!). Any day that isn't a Tuesday, you can pop into Fire Hall Market to peruse the synergistic vendors. There's a baker, a butcher, a four-stool bar, a soup & sandwich spot, plants, crafts, and more. As we will see a bit further on, Fire Hall is also one of Port Stanley's happening music venues.

Dining

This same L-intersection supports a handful of eateries, with an additional cluster cropping up around Port Stanley Beach. Saving a few options for the Drinks & Entertainment section, you might like to start the day at 782 Taphouse, aka "That Breakfast Place," enjoy a panini or quiche at The Art and Soul Cafe, slam a coffee & muffin combo at The Harbour Merchant Coffee Company, or plan for a Sunday brunch at the Windjammer Inn.

For lunch, the chili dog, fries, and orangeade from historic Mackie's, consumed back on your beach towel, or atop their patio picnic tables, might very well do the trick. However, both Fresh Flame and Main Street Taqueria come in strong with ethnic options. If your gut needs a healthy reset, The Edible Journey makes fresh smoothies and bowls. And if you just want something quick, cheap, and still homemade, the Grab n' Go Eatery operates out of a little house on Main Street, serving $10 daily specials Monday through Saturday.

In terms of a fancy dinner (nothing too pretentious, but something worth changing out of the bathing suit for), your best bets can be found orbiting around the river. Solo on Main and Littles Midnight warrant a reservation, whereas Two Forks and Riva Italian Restaurant can usually accommodate walk-ins thanks to their combined indoor and outdoor seating. But if you're still in laid-back beach mode come day's end, Buccaneer Bar and Grill and The Barnacles Beerhouse have you covered with fish 'n' chips and whatnot.

Drinks & Entertainment

While GT's On The Beach has a full menu (including fresh fish and salads), given its position on the backside of Port Stanley Beach, you're likely to encounter it as a happy-hour rallying point. You'll have to get there early to claim a table on the sand, but the rest of the joint has that open-concept beach bar vibe to it anyway.

If you can pull yourself a few blocks away from the water, then your first point of contact with Port Stanley's live music scene will be a memorable one, thanks to Pierside Pub's rustic, Florida Keys-style stage and two-story patio.

Further up on Bridge Street, the Royal Canadian Legion (a staple of Canadian small towns) also touts live music every weekend on their tented lawn — fueled by cheap beer and barbecue.

Another joint with affordable draft and recurring live music is The Hydrant Pub. This micro-bar sits within the Fire Hall Market, meaning that your plastic pint can be indulged on the communal outdoor patio (perhaps with a sandwich from Sandra's).

Port Stanley Brewing Co capitalizes on its creekside real estate with a large-windowed beer hall and connecting patio — one occupied by a communal fire pit and a deluxe burger stall. The only kicker here is that a single beer (though full of crafty goodness, no doubt) costs $12 after tax and the minimum tip prompt. That's a bit steep for my taste.

Last but not least, no discussion of entertainment is complete without accolades for the Port Stanley Festival Theatre. This 200-seat venue puts on a summer season of genre-balanced plays, plus the odd sell-out rock concert (I got to see the Mudmen my very first weekend in town). Tickets go quickly, so head to the box office or book online, but also know that the next show may be only hours away.

Quick Note On Accommodations

Port Stanley primarily focuses on cottage rentals and Airbnbs. Still, it also has four traditional accommodations: Kettle Creek Inn, Inn On The Harbour, Windjammer Inn, and Port Stanley Beach Hotel. These are the types of places you have to call ahead for rates & availability, or book directly on their website.

Post People

One of Port Stanley's unique quirks is the presence of "Post People" all over town. These cartoonish, locally crafted wooden statues sprout up in public spaces and residential neighborhoods alike, making for fun photo ops and scavenger hunts. Once sold in the Fire Hall Market, you can now find the studio behind Cathy and Mike's house on Frances Street.

Peripheral Parks & Side Quests

As you can see, Port Stanley has more than enough with which to fill a weekend (rain or shine). But if you're curious about Lake Erie's scenery and ecology, then here are a few day trips to consider.

Long Point

One hour east of Port Stanley, the UNESCO Long Point Biosphere Reserve awaits. Composed of the beaches of Long Point Provincial Park, the wetlands of Big Creek National Wildlife Area, and additional, strictly-protected wilderness spaces, Long Point gives refuge to 1,600 species, including, most notably, 370 species of birds.

Point Pelee

Point Pelee National Park is a two-hour drive west. Still, as it is the southernmost point on Canada's mainland and one of the most biologically diverse national parks in the country, your efforts will certainly be rewarded. Highlights include the one-kilometer Marsh Boardwalk and the lengthy sand spit known as "The Tip". Like Long Point, Point Pelee is a vital stopover for migratory birds seeking the shortest flights over Lake Erie. So bring your binoculars (or you can rent them there).

Port Burwell

Of course, Port Stanley wasn't the only small town with the bright idea of establishing itself on this Great Lake's shore. Neighboring Port Burwell takes a sleepier approach to its commercial sector, but is home to its own beach and playhouse, plus the oldest lighthouse on the Canadian side of Lake Erie. Hiding in plain sight, Port Burwell also boasts its own submarine! HMCS Ojibwa also serves as the Museum of Naval History. Visitors can tour the interior of this massive warship on weekends.

All Aboard The Tourist Train

Even though the Port Stanley Terminal Rail no longer operates as a mode of transportation, it runs three times daily (on weekends) tours through the scenic countryside. This hour-long ride is entirely led by volunteers, entailing a conductor-led narration on the way out, a ragtime piano track on the way back, and the chance to see an old caboose and the "Whyte House" (you'll see what I mean when you get there) at the turnaround point. Train enthusiasts will be delighted by Union Depot — North America's smallest train station — and by the living museum back at the Port Stanley terminus.

Caveats Worth Mentioning

Having hinted at some drawbacks throughout the article, I'll leave you with a couple of clear caveats to consider before visiting Port Stanley.

Price: This is becoming a universal issue, but over the last month, I've encountered $12 beers, $18 paninis, and $19 takeaway soups. Throw in parking and $300/night accommodations, and Port Stanley isn't doing much to buck the inflation trend.

Water quality: As mentioned in the intro, Port Stanley is a Blue Flag beach. But while the municipality does its best to keep its slice of shoreline clean, Lake Erie's industrial legacy still haunts it. Pay attention to the water quality ratings indicated by colored flags on the beach, or check Central Elgin's website for the latest bacterial samples to see if the water is safe to swim in. Don't go in if the water looks murky or after heavy storms, as this can lead to polluted surface water runoff or stirred-up lake bottoms. With all of that said, Lake Erie is leaps and bounds ahead of its former self, and Port Stanley is as good as it gets along these shorelines.

Asphalt Plant: Speaking of Erie's industrial legacy, an asphalt mixing plant sits rather unfortunately at the confluence of Port Stanley Beach and Kettle Creek. You won't see much of it on Instagram or Google Maps, and it's pretty dang hard to find anything about it online, and yet, there it is in plain view (and smell) of the shore. I'm sure there are benefits to the community, but as a transient beach-goer, I must say, it's a drag.

A Gem On Lake Erie

Port Stanley hits from all angles. Its wide, lengthy beach knows it's the star attraction and welcomes visitors accordingly, with beachside dining and ample parking. But for those a little skittish about the sun, there are also plays to attend, trains to ride, bands to sing along to, and shops to patronize. Sinking into this Ontario beach town as it transitioned from an off-season hangout to a full-blown summer hotspot showed me how versatile Port Stanley can be. Something tells me it has a few more tricks up its sleeve.