Road Tripping Along Michigan’s Thumbcoast
Michigan's Thumbcoast covers 140 miles of waterfront roadways. It links the isolated haven of Harsens Island to the buzzing beach town of Caseville and every park and harbor in between. Along the way it bridges Lake St. Clair with Lake Huron and adds an invaluable segment to the 1,059-mile Lake Huron Circle Tour. I recently drove it palm to tip in the span of two days. The first stage traced the St. Clair River past ferries, freighters, and intriguing museums. Day two brought the full bounty of the Great Lakes through kayak side trips and sandy beaches and inventive downtowns. The Thumbcoast isn't as well known as the Pure Michigan Byways. It still packs a diverse itinerary into a relatively short drive and paddle. Come along for a tour.
Day 1: The River
Heading south to north, the Thumbcoast hugs Michigan's bank of the St. Clair River, from the top of Lake St. Clair to the base of Lake Huron. These river towns blend quaint parks, marinas, and industry, creating a cultural and aesthetic hodgepodge that is unique to southeastern Michigan.
Mile 0: Harsens Island & Algonac
If you could magically plop down at Mile-0 of Michigan's Thumbcoast, this is what you would see. The southern tip of Harsens Island's finger-like channel looks, in one direction, over the bulbous blue visage of Lake St. Clair and its offshore South Channel Lighthouse. Turning toward the task at hand, the northbound Caribbean-esque highway teases 140 miles of waterfront beauty that is about to unfurl.
Harsens Island is more marina than man, with fishing boats, sailboats, pontoon boats, and houseboats occupying row after row of minor inlets. The sole dry-land community, Sans Souci, consists of a row of businesses and a retro fire station, all facing Canada's Walpole Island on the opposite shore of the St. Clair River. I stopped in at Island Grind Cafe to kick my adventure off right. The coffee was hot and the reception warm. What more could you hope for?
There's no bridge from mainland Michigan to Harsens Island, so it is necessary to take a short and sweet ferry across from the small city of Algonac. As of the writing of this article, the round-trip toll was $16 and it has to be paid in cash. I learned right out of the gates that on an old-school, small-town road-trip such as the Thumbcoast, it pays to have a little cash. Thankfully, I was able to double back on a grocery store ATM pretty quickly, though the added fee did sting. When you're back in Algonac, pull over at the Boardwalk to drink in the patriotic atmosphere and watch the Walpole Island Ferry make some rounds of its own.
Mile 13: Marine City
A few miles further up the river, Marine City presents the first, but certainly not the last, Main Street (i.e. Water Street) experience. Antique shops and brick-wall murals are interspersed with green riverside parks, which are perfect for watching the boats go by. Ready for a refill, I popped into Mad Hatter Coffee within the boutique commune that was once a marquee movie theatre, but now goes by The Mariner. Taken aback by the unique shopping experience, I made sure to pick up a few knick knacks for my girlfriend.
Coffee in hand, I then strolled Marine City's little walkway, past its branded lighthouse. Just as I regained the sidewalk, a large lake freighter chugged southbound, moments before an even larger ship made its way north. First time visitors to the St. Clair River might, at first glance, be put off by the chemical plants plopped along its shoreline. But the shipping channel that has stemmed from this industry has made the waterway delightfully dynamic. There's nothing quite like seeing a thousand-footer come forging up a relatively narrow river. They don't come all the time, but if you pull up a cottage chair, or better yet, grab a pint (which we'll do in St. Clair), then you're bound to see at least one. Heck, full-blown cruise ships now even come through. In this first leg of the journey, on this particular day, I spotted four freighters.
Mile 20: St. Clair
I pulled out of Marine City right after the larger of the two freighters went by, and found myself racing it to St. Clair. Knowing I had minutes to spare, I got myself situated on the massive outdoor patio at War Water Brewery. Given the heat wave that smacked the lead up to America's 250th Anniversary, everyone else was hiding inside. But I had a patch of shade for sanctuary, and was dropping ice cubes into my light lager (does that count as hydration?).
Expecting the freighter to come back into view from my right, I was caught off guard by the biggest one of the day that came floating in from my left. By some marvelous coincidence, they passed in unison, right on my open-air stage, and blew their sonorous fog horns as a sign of solidarity. I didn't really get the best picture of the performance, but the real-world experience resonated. You'll see what I mean when you get there.
Afterwards, I went for a digestion stroll on yet another of the Thumbcoast's immaculate river walks. Swimmers and standup paddleboarders relished the heat, while other summer vacationers rested in the shade amongst beds of colorful flowers.
Mile 32: Port Huron
The Thumbcoast's biggest city marked my first and last point of contact on both travel days. Port Huron sits directly across the Blue Water Bridge from my hometown of Sarnia, Ontario. While its historic downtown presents a notable nightlife scene, I focused on Port Huron's waterfront museums.
If you're aiming to keep northbound momentum, any number of Port Huron's four museums can be visited in steady succession. Or, if you break your Thumbcoast road-trip into multiple days, then each historical exhibit can be indulged all more. You nautical nuts can do a full guided tour of the Huron Lightship, engineering nerds can absorb each interpretive display and mini-documentary within the Thomas Edison Depot, and history buffs of all sorts can tack on a tour of the five-acre military facility after ascending the oldest lighthouse in Michigan: Fort Gratiot Light Station. The only one I didn't get a chance to check out was the Port Huron Museum. With over 45,000 artifacts housed within the historic Carnegie Center, I figured it deserved its own afternoon. For the time being, it was back to Sarnia for a short reset. Next, we'll break onto Lake Huron's coast, where harbor towns harbor unexpected attractions.
Day 2: The Lake
Once again crossing the Blue Water Bridge from Canada, this leg of the Thumbcoast put me on M-25 all the way from Port Huron to Caseville. Between communities, the 50 mph highway passed humble homes, green pastures, and lakeside turnouts wisped with sand. Oh, and mini golf. There is an unusual number of mini golf courses towards the northern tip.
Mile 54: Lexington
A fresh day meant a fresh cup of coffee, which I acquired at Lexington Coffee Co mere minutes after their 7 a.m. opening. Often a festive village (it is, after all, the host of Thumbfest), I got to see the sleepier side of Lexington as I cruised past closed boutiques and out to the State Harbor. Later that evening, a Ted Nugent concert at the Lexington Village Theatre had Huron Avenue buzzing with excitement, but as the new sun eclipsed Lake Huron's horizon, only the ducks and dog-walkers were yet afoot. Lexington is not only another example of an attractive main street, but the first in a sequence of strategically sculpted safe harbors equipped with lengthy and walkable breakwalls.
Mile 65: Port Sanilac
Knowing I would be retracing my tire tracks, I saved Port Sanilac for my dinner stop. But let's sacrifice chronology in the spirit of a sequential odometer. Port Sanilac is a sort of blink-and-you'll-miss-it highway town. But pull over on Main Street (actually called Main Street this time) and you're sure to sniff out the locally-famous Alli Bar. A live music venue Thursday through Sunday, I got to see this quirky, open-air, drinks-only establishment in its chill Tuesday form. Plastic pint in hand, I scoured the glorified scrapyard, checking out the limitless trinkets, novelties, seating arrangements, and even an old trolley car, with unwavering amusement.
Exiting Alli Bar's back alley, I naturally trended down to Port Sanilac's State Harbor, where I grabbed a pizza from On Water. Sitting with a cheesy pie on a bench, arms still pulsing from my kayaking adventure (stay tuned), I reflected on what a full and satiating day it had been. But we haven't yet reached the sunset portion of this tale. So for now, let's push on.
Mile 95: Harbor Beach
A younger Andrew would have blown right past Harbor Beach in an effort to reach the bigger attractions at the end of the road. These days, I enjoy frequent leg-stretch breaks and the snapshots they provide into the micro-communities sprinkled all across America. Harbor Beach delivers exactly what it billboards. There is a Michigan-sponsored safe harbor and two sandy beaches split by a lovely fishing pier. Morning sun now picking up steam, I embarked on one last sunscreenless stroll above the sparkling waters. Knowing it was too early for french fries, the seagulls remained perched with a passive curiosity.
Mile 120: Port Austin
The Thumbcoast's northernmost community stands at the precipice of Lake Huron and Saginaw Bay. All about kayaking, beach days, summer grub, and light shopping, Port Austin is easily one of the Great Lakes's most laid-back towns. I, like many out-of-towners, came to see Turnip Rock: a floating island surrounded by sea caves that can only be accessed via a seven-mile (round-trip) paddle. Port Austin Kayak & Bike fixed me up with a four-hour rental for only $40. It can be a grind to get out there, especially if the wind or currents kick up, but it is well worth it for anyone with moderate fitness and modest kayaking abilities.
Seeing Turnip Rock was easily the highlight of the entire Thumbcoast. As with any good outdoor adventure, the positive impression was earned in sweat and then cemented with a hearty meal back at base. Adjoined to the rental shop, Pak's Backyard Cafe and Beer Garden attracts the vast majority of paddlers moments after docking. I went with the fish tacos and regretted nothing.
Mile 139: Caseville
After a peak experience like Turnip Rock, it was tempting to simply head for home. But it is essential that you continue on to Caseville: a colorful denouement to the Thumbcoast. The drive passes two state parks, a number of beachside turnouts, and stretches of bohemian residences. Personally, I think the miles from Port Austin to Caseville are the prettiest of the entire drive. With that said, contrary to pseudo-sage aphorisms, in this case it is just as much about the destination as the journey.
Caseville is a bright and bubbly beach town. It takes pride in its commercial core, as evidenced not only by the successful indie shops, but also by the many murals splashed across their walls. It was here that I encountered the largest and, by-far, most populated of the Thumbcoast's many beaches. Though far removed from Detroit, or any other major city for that matter, it was refreshing to find such a spritely lake mecca.
Two Thumbs Up For the Thumbcoast
Who's got two thumbs and loves the Thumbcoast? This guy! After splitting the 140-mile (point-to-point) Lake Huron highway into two sizzling days, I can honestly say it hit all the beats. There was peaceful isolation on Harsens Island, maritime fun in Port Huron, an epic kayaking adventure in Port Austin, and all sorts of simple pleasures en route. I've had the great fortune to cover some of Michigan's other standout road-trips, from Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to the Keweenaw Peninsula's Copper Country Trail. And though the Thumbcoast hasn't garnered the same state/federal designations, in practice, it is a scenic and satisfying way to discover a lesser-known stretch of Michigan's Great Lakes coast.
