This Indiana Scenic Byway Is The Road Trip Of A Lifetime

In Metamora, a covered wooden aqueduct still moves canal water over Duck Creek below. It is the only one of its kind left standing in the United States. The Whitewater Canal Scenic Byway covers 78 miles of canal-era stops between Hagerstown and Lawrenceburg. Hagerstown sits at the northern end and holds Abbott's Candies, the oldest candy shop in Indiana. A vintage railroad and a working grist mill fill the miles before the drive ends at a lakefront beach.

This 78-mile byway runs north to south, following a historic canal along the Whitewater River. Built in the 19th century, these water highways helped spur early economic growth and town development in Indiana. Railroads soon made them obsolete, but the surviving structures are still valued for their history and heritage today. Driving straight through, you pass rolling countryside, waterways, and historic towns. The stopovers reward a pause too, with a historic mill to tour, a 19th-century dam to hike to, and vintage trains to ride.

The Best Time To Drive This Byway

The Whitewater Canal Scenic Byway is open year-round, but the drive varies by season. October is the byway's busiest month due to its fall foliage. Cooler weather also makes hiking through the Whitewater Valley more comfortable. Summer is another popular time to take this drive for outdoor recreation, especially if you plan on having a lake day.

To avoid the summer rush, late spring has similar temperatures without the same crowds. But if you really want to avoid traffic, winter is by far the least busy time to drive this byway. Keep in mind that some byway attractions are closed or limited in the winter due to weather, so it's important to check ahead. Road trippers should also check the Indiana Trafficwise website for live road conditions and closures.

First Stop: Hagerstown

Starting your byway journey from the northern end, Hagerstown is a fitting first stop. This rural town was once the northern endpoint of the Whitewater Canal; today, its downtown preserves the decades that followed its canal boom. On Main Street, the Historic Hagerstown Museum sits inside a 19th-century Italianate-style building. The museum celebrates local art, alongside exhibits on the town's industrial, automotive, and canal eras.

One block away, you can find Abbott's Candies, the oldest candy store in Indiana. Established in 1890, the candy shop and factory are housed inside a former church dating to the 1850s. Nowadays, visitors come to watch the candy-making process firsthand and shop for sweet souvenirs. Abbott's Candies is best known for its handmade caramels, made using classic recipes and copper kettles.

Rolling Through History: The Whitewater Valley Railroad

About 20 miles south of Hagerstown, the Whitewater Valley Railroad (WVRR) is a relaxing way to see the surrounding region. Trains first superseded the Whitewater Canal here in the 1860s, and the modern WVRR runs its excursions on that historic line today. Its sightseeing trips trace the canal's original towpath. Departing from Connersville, passengers can board a historic locomotive to ride past woodlands, farmlands, and the West Fork of the Whitewater River.

The Valley Flyer runs most weekends between May and October, chugging through the Whitewater Valley. In October, the Fall Foliage Flyer runs on weekdays, showcasing the region's seasonal trees. Both round-trip excursions last about 5 hours, including a 2-hour layover in the town of Metamora. Keep in mind, Metamora is a popular stop on the Whitewater Canal Scenic Byway, leading some to skip the train and drive straight there instead. Alternatively, if you love the rail layover and want more time in the historic town, you can always drive to Metamora after your train ride.

Living History in Metamora

Continuing down the byway, Metamora is your next big stop. Known as "Indiana's Historic Canal Town," Metamora celebrates its heritage with Canal Days every fall. The three-day flea market and festival takes place the first weekend of October, drawing thousands of visitors for the town's busiest weekend of the year. Running parallel to the Whitewater Canal, Main Street fills with vendors selling artisan foods, crafts, and antiques.

The highlight of your visit is likely to be the Whitewater Canal State Historic Site. The open-air museum preserves original canal structures like the Metamora Grist Mill. The water-powered grist mill still operates today, grinding corn into cornmeal and flour. Visitors can watch this process up close and even buy a bag to bring home. The site's Duck Creek Aqueduct is also operational, carrying the canal across Duck Creek. Built in 1846, it is the last remaining covered wood aqueduct in the country.

The Feeder Dam Trail

Before hitting the road again, the Feeder Dam Trail lets you stretch your legs and see more of the Whitewater Valley on foot. This hiking path is part of the longer Whitewater Canal Trail, connecting Metamora to the town of Laurel. The official 2.5-mile route concludes at Dam Road, but adding another 1.5 miles brings you to the 19th-century Feeder Dam. Stretching across the Whitewater River, this 372-foot-wide dam stands about 12 feet high, creating views well worth the extended hike. The rest of the stretch is just as pretty, following the Whitewater Canal and its neighboring rail line through woodlands. During rail excursions, the historic trains can also be seen passing through.

Soak Up Brookville Lake

Brookville Lake comes next on your drive. The 5,260-acre reservoir is a popular stop on this byway, especially when the weather gets warm. The lake is bounded by two State Recreation Areas: the Mounds State Recreation Area and Quakertown State Recreation Area. People come here to camp, kayak, hike, and swim in the summertime. At the Mounds SRA, Brookville Lake Beach is a spacious stretch of sand that families love. The Quakertown SRA also has a 3D archery range open Thursday through Sunday during the warmer months. Further south, the Brookville Overlook Recreation Area is a separate day-use spot for hikes, picnics, and vistas. The elevated Overlook Trail ends with wide views of Brookville Lake and its dam.

Taking The Scenic Route

This itinerary hits all the best byway stops, and it's easy to mix and match based on your travel preferences. Drivers heading south to north can reverse the list, starting with a beach day at Brookville Lake and ending with a sweet treat in Hagerstown. If time is a factor, Metamora's Metamora Local is a shorter alternative to the 5-hour train ride out of Connersville. Even if you want to drive straight through without stopping, the Whitewater Valley looks great from the comfort of your car.