Island Hopping Across Lake Erie
The Lake Erie Islands dot the western basin of their titular Great Lake, stretching between northern Ohio and southwestern Ontario. The larger units of this bi-national archipelago can be accessed via mainland ferries, with some of the smaller islands available by puddle-hopper flights or private boats. In either case, because of a relatively low latitude and coveted "lake effect" climate bubble, the Lake Erie Islands enjoy an extended fair-weather tourist season compared to the rest of the Great Lakes. Earlier this year, as a pre-summer getaway, I biked around the largest of the Lake Erie Islands, Pelee Island (Ontario). So it seemed fitting that, before the summer fizzled out, I should head down to Ohio in order to compare and contrast its three main islands, Kelleys Island, South Bass Island (aka "Put-In-Bay"), and Middle Bass Island. Though each rock shares a geographical and geological baseline, I was delighted to see fresh sets of experiences unfurl with every ferry dock.
Pelee Island (Ontario)
Pelee Island is not only the largest of the Lake Erie Islands, but the southernmost inhabited place in Canada. This past May, I took the Pelee Islander Ferry over from Leamington, Ontario ($15 CAD, round-trip for a walk-on). Note that ferries are also available from the neighbouring town of Kingsville, as well as Sandusky, Ohio. In any case, you're likely to arrive at Pelee Island's West Dock, within the Township of Pelee. Unlike Mackinac Island, cars are allowed on Pelee Island, as well as the other major Lake Erie Islands, and are ferried over in limited supplies (motorists must book in advance, walk-ons are casual). However, the preferred ways for visitors to get around are by bike or golf cart, both of which are available to rent mere steps from the ferry docks.
My means of transportation varied with each island, but given Pelee's 30-kilometer perimeter loop, and the string of pleasant spring days that greeted my arrival, a cruiser bike seemed like the way to go for this one. Having been fixed up by The Pelee Shop, I pedalled counter-clockwise, visiting Fish Point Provincial Nature Reserve, the southernmost point on the island, the Stone Road Alvar Nature Reserve, home to the rare blue racer snake, the Pelee Island Lighthouse at the northernmost point on the island, the quirky marina town of Scudder, the historic Vin Villa winery, the Butterfly Sanctuary, and finally, the Pelee Island Winery Pavilion. As you'll see across each subsequent destination, the Lake Erie Islands have a longstanding tradition of wine making.
Given its size, minimal population, and Canadian passivity, Pelee Island was the most chilled out and nature-centric of the major islands, Middle Bass notwithstanding. So if that sounds like your preferred formula, give Pelee priority.
South Bass Island (Ohio)
Continuing in chronological order, I next visited South Bass Island, which is commonly referred to by the name of its sole community, Put-In-Bay. Jet Express runs ferries straight to the docks in Put-In-Bay from Sandusky and Port Clinton, Ohio, while Miller Ferry floats over to the south end of South Bass Island via Catawba Island, actually a peninsula, and actually still part of Port Clinton. Not realizing the drop offs differed, I went with the latter approach ($18 USD, round-trip).
At first, I was perturbed by the gap between the Miller Ferry docks and Put-In-Bay, but then I realized that the distance was only 2.1 miles. Tempted by the adjacent golf cart rental shop, I ultimately sided with the $3.50 shuttle bus. As a single, the golf carts were a bit too pricey, but had I traveled with a group, then this would have been a no-brainer. Following my lift into town, I opted to tackle the 3.5-mile-long, 1.5-mile-wide island on foot. Eventually, this strategy softened to include some golf cart hitchhiking, which was a fun experiment and great glimpse into American hospitality.
Put-In-Bay has a reputation as the party island of the lot. Given the frequency of taverns, pubs, tiki bars, breweries, wineries, and police cruisers, this characterization appears accurate. But with that said, on this average summer Tuesday, I found PIB to be quite pleasant and varied in its approaches. For instance, having been dropped off in the heart of town by my friendly and informative shuttle driver, I first walked over to Perry's Victory & International Peace Memorial, a towering homage to the Battle of Lake Erie and what has since become the world's longest undefended border. From there, I proceeded past the peaceful and aesthetically-pleasing estates, to the nature preserves off of SR-357. At the very tip of the island, within the Scheef East Point Nature Preserve, there was a beach made entirely of invasive mussel shells. Having written recently on the quagga mussel invasion, this visual put the scale of the problem into perspective.
Hitching a ride back into town with a convivial Texan couple, I then made my way to The Boardwalk, where I sampled some of Put-In-Bay's famous lobster bisque. The hour now having ticked over to an appropriate number, I visited both of PIB's wineries to get a better sense of the Lake Erie Islands' viticultural scene. Put in Bay Winery specializes in sweet wines, which isn't to my liking, but the waterside patio made up for this incongruity. Up the road, Heineman Winery had some dry reds, plus tours of the world's largest geode, so I'd give this one the nod if you only have the time or alcohol tolerance for one. Firmly in the middle of the island, and with the afternoon ticking on, I thumbed another golf cart ride back to the south docks and returned to my basecamp at Marblehead in time for an early dinner.
Kelleys Island (Ohio)
The next morning, I set forth with an ambitious plan. I saw online that Kelleys Island Coffee Company opened at 7 a.m., and then Kelleys Island State Park opened at 9 on the opposite end of the island. Thus, I hopped the sunrise ferry out of Marblehead ($26 USD, round-trip), dressed in running clothes. I planned to enjoy a quiet coffee and breakfast and then run to the rest of the island's attractions. Golf carts and bicycles were once again prevalent, but I like to mix things up.
Upon arrival, I was met with a sizable island and rather small town, a combo reminiscent of Pelee Island. Unfortunately, I was also met with this sign at the coffee shop:
CLOSED Wed Aug 26. Sorry for any inconvenience.
This unforeseen snag stalled my sequential itinerary and caused my stomach to groan a little louder. Nothing else was open at that time. Not the marina, not the general store, none of the bars. Nothing. And, of course, having no supplies for the day, I didn't want to proceed into the unpopulated portion of the island until I put some fuel in my system. On Kelleys Island, it appears that the early bird does not get the worm.
Thankfully, to my surprise, at 8 a.m., Captains Corner pulled down its bar stools and flipped its OPEN sign. Score! After a plate of eggs, several cups of coffee, and a friendly barside trade-war discussion, I was one my way up to Kelleys Island's famous glacial grooves.
When the mile-high Wisconsin Glacier melted at the end of the last Ice Age, it left behind the Great Lakes. But before then, its immense weight and passenger debris carved distinctive marks into the limestone bedrock that constitutes the Lake Erie Islands seen today. Much of this limestone was quarried during the early-to-mid 1900s, but a portion was partitioned to preserve these grooves and ancient fossils. This geological enigma is now the focal point of Kelleys Island State Park, but wooded hiking trails, a couple of beaches, one sandy and one secret, and a well-kept campground round out its profile.
Kelleys Island, like Pelee and South Bass, also harbours two wineries. Jogging back towards town, I first wet my whistle at Monarch Winery. Less of a sommelier's estate and more a fun place to hang with two or four-legged friends, I took my plastic cup of dry(ish) red into the greenhouse dining area, and enjoyed it in the company of their pet turtle. Being there three minutes shy of their 11 a.m. opening, I was the sole human patron at that time.
Embiggened by the wine, my jog over to Kelleys Island Wine Co. drifted by like a dream. This time, fellow patrons were beginning to amass, as this establishment presented a full lunch menu as well as a petting zoo for the kiddos. Salmon burger and another cup of red in my system, my jog back devolved into more of a putter, but by this point, ferries were returning every half-hour, so there was really no need to rush.
Middle Bass Island (Ohio)
Though there are over 30 Lake Erie Islands, Middle Bass marks the fourth and final one that is serviced by ferries. It is the smallest of the lot, centered around Middle Bass Island State Park, which itself is centered around the iconic Lonz Winery. A very small community with a few basic eateries exists about a mile from the south docks. By this point in my island-hopping adventure, I was relieved by Middle Bass's simplicity.
Taking the Miller Ferry over once again from Catawba ($23 USD, round-trip, with limited daily departures), I grabbed a coffee at The Island Grind and caught up on the winery's storied history. There are interpretive signs around the park, the old cellar acts as a museum, and the mansion is available to tour upon request. After a free-spirited wander into "town," I returned to the back bar section of The Island Grind, appropriately called Prohibition. I was warned that Lonz wine is very sweet, and indeed it was, but I felt obligated to complete my Lake Erie Islands winery tour with the in-house brand. When in Rome. Or rather, when on Middle Bass Island.
Mainland Bases & Bonuses
In case you were wondering, accommodations were available on each of these islands, but save for Pelee Island, they didn't quite suit a blogger's budget. Instead, I based out of a surprisingly homely motel on the mainland town of Marblehead, the Lake Point Motel. From here, I had quick access to the Kelleys Island Ferry, as well as the oldest lighthouse on the Great Lakes. From this position, I was able to utilize Miller's Catawba-based ferries on my way in from, and back to, Ontario.
Well actually, though the plan was to head home after Middle Bass, a spontaneous side-trip swept me up. For you see, I had been staring at the mega-coasters of Six Flags' Cedar Point for three straight days and felt compelled to a). conquer my childhood fear of the Millennium Force, and b). test if I had truly crossed over into "middle age." Utilizing the 40-minutes aboard the Middle Bass ferry, I booked a new motel in Sandusky and then cheesed-it to Cedar Point.
Having chickened out twice earlier in life, I was finally brave enough to ride the 310-foot, 93 mph roller coaster. And after another five coasters, the intense nausea informed me that I am, in fact, middle aged. Actually, I learned this after the very first one (it seems that sweet wine and mac n' cheese on Middle Bass was a bad choice), but I pushed through to get my money's worth!
A Bi-National Lake Adventure
The rest of the evening and following day in Sandusky turned out to be a delight, but that is a story for another time. For now, I leave you with a call to action in regards to the Lake Erie Islands. From both the Canadian and American shores, I heard similar sentiments: "I've always wanted to go to Pelee Island," or "I've been meaning to get over to Kelleys Island." Well, both Great Lake getaways, along with South Bass and Middle Bass, and even North Bass if you link up with Griffing Airlines, are there for the taking. You can make separate road trips out of it, as I did, or simply park long-term at an Ontario or Ohio dock, and continuously island-hop utilizing various ferry operators.
The Lake Erie Islands are not only accessible, but easy to get around. They sport just enough infrastructure to keep tourists satiated, but never so much as to detract from the archipelago's important ecological roles. The fair-weather season may be winding down in other parts of the Great Lakes, but in the western basin of Lake Erie, temperate climates mean you can visit these islands well into the fall, or early next spring.
