7 West Virginia Towns That Rival Europe's Best
West Virginia is a place of fog-softened ridgelines, main streets that run to the horizon, and meandering rivers, calling to mind some of the most beloved Old World settings. Here, you can step away from modern noise and wander lanes shaped by centuries of Appalachian history. The towns below, warmed by the same brilliant dawns and dusks, move at an easier rhythm. That rhythm lets you slip into an unhurried morning, strolling past glow-lit storefronts like the brick-lined thoroughfare in Shepherdstown to the cafés of Harpers Ferry. If you are ready to vacation in unexpected corners, perhaps closer to home than a flight across a continent, read on.
Harpers Ferry
Slate rock walls and abandoned ruins make for a fantastical European look-alike in Harpers Ferry, which rests right where the Potomac meets the Shenandoah. The peninsula tip, called "The Point," sets up a view of misty hills, then the trails take it a step further. Civil War remnants dot these paths, such as at Murphy-Chambers Farm and the climbs up Maryland Heights and Loudoun Heights. Jefferson Rock sits like a balcony above it all, and figures like Jefferson himself have praised it since the early republic. Ascending above the natural, St. Peter’s Roman Catholic Church lifts a Victorian Gothic spire over Lower Town brick streets, an immaculately preserved district of storefronts that shade the street with balconies on historic facades. John Brown’s Fort keeps the 1859 raid, a failed abolitionist effort, within reach of today, while Lockwood House is a 19th-century home that served as a hospital, HQ, prison, and even a ballroom during the Civil War. The hills and history of Harpers Ferry have a way of making one peckish, so Coach House Bar & Grill and the Coffee Mill should have treats to jazz you back up again.
Thomas
There is much to say about Thomas, but its Route 48 stretch of balconies is really something to see; each building has a brick facade that defies uniformity. The Gradient Project Space gallery has a gorgeous and enclosed Victorian projection, while Purple Fiddle has a deck with some cozy hammocks that sway to the tune of live performances. It is not surprising that Thomas is as artsy as a Renaissance square, when great beauties like Black Water Falls or Dolly Sods wilderness are right around the corner, waiting to be hiked and painted. Like-minded nature lovers can be sought out at 'Tie One on Taphouse and Fly Shop,' which is more than a mouthful; it also serves with clever fishing decoration, like colorful lures and rods for purchase. Beyond art and music, just outside the Senior's Center is a heck of a view of the hills across the river. Last, the local Mountain State Brewing company ensures that everything on tap is as fresh and high-quality as brews on the other side of the Atlantic.
Shepherdstown
Speaking of main street facades, Shepherdstown's German Street is packed with nineteenth-century facades that frame bookstores like Four Seasons, cafes like Bistro 112, and old inns. The Shepherdstown Museum inside the Entler Hotel has preserved iconic landmarks like the Grist Mill, which dates back to before 1739 and has the largest overshot water wheel in the world at 40 feet in diameter. Yet, if you would rather live in the present, the Opera House pulls you back to the present in an optimistic, intimate space. For a real mind-bender, check out the Contemporary American Theater Festival in July, which has shows on Asian-American tales, prescription medicines, and even a Queer Stunt Spectacular; all of which must be witnessed rather than described. The best is last, over at the James Rumsey Monument, which hides an iconic river bridge view, or the Little House, which is quite literally a little house built in 1929 to honor a local Professor.
Lewisburg
Lewisburg has a magic of granting guests a full schedule without letting them feel rushed, just like any quaint vacation to a quiet town overseas ought to. The grid design means that it is hard for those standing at the Washington-Jefferson intersection to imagine the center of the world to be anywhere else. One standout in Lewisburg is the familiarly named Carnegie Hall, which was built in 1902 and funded by the same Andrew Carnegie behind the iconic New York hall. It is a tall, acoustic space that competes for attention with Greenbrier Valley Theatre, which sits closer to downtown and has a more mid-20th-century aesthetic. If you want to catch natural echoes, there are tours of the Lost World Caverns, which is a surreal and ancient cave system rich in otherworldly rock formations. Fossils from these mythical depths are now at home in an adjacent museum. Finally, while the subtleties of taste are up for debate, Lewisburg's eatery names like "The French Goat," "Briergarten," and "The Livery Tavern" will undoubtedly convince you that the old world is still at hand.
Fayetteville
The Fayetteville county office decorates the center of town in an eye-catching way— not with its brick towers and stone arches that are lit up in a heavenly way each night— but with a peculiar, ornate clock planted proudly on the street, disguised in the appearance of a dated European street lamp. Yet, if you are either coming or going, you will not miss the New River Gorge bridge, which is one of the highest and longest steel arch bridges in the world. The Bridge Walk takes you under that span on a steady catwalk with a slow-moving thrill you feel in your knees, so if they start to wobble, do not look down! Surrounding state parks, like Babcock and Hawks Nest, offer visitors a look at old mills, tram rides, or even canyon-water boating with sunsets that paint the gorges. In Fayetteville, there is a lot to see, a lot to do, and a lot to talk about.
Berkeley Springs
Berkeley Springs is continental in the sense that it treats relaxation as a civic duty. The town dates to the 1700s, when travelers came to soak in warm springs reputed for their healing qualities. Today, Berkeley Springs State Park still runs mineral baths that are soothing for tired bones, and the Roman Style of bathing is as exotic as it is educational. George Washington visited, and a small display marks the spot where he is said to have taken a dip. If the waters don’t slake your thirst, stop by Berkeley Springs Brewing Co., which brews beer with local spring mineral water billed as “award-winning.” Afterward, choose from several bed-and-breakfasts— such as the Grand Castalian Inn or Mendenhall 1884— with exteriors best described as “tiny palaces."
White Sulphur Springs
Travelers have headed to White Sulphur Springs for over three hundred years for its famed resort and mountain backdrop. The Greenbrier dates to 1778 and pairs frilly rooms with traditional cottages, carrying a five-star rating. Even if you do not plan on staying, wandering the public halls is a pleasure— especially if bold palettes and old-world decor appeal to you. Nearby, Greenbrier State Forest curates gentle streams, cabins, and rolling overlooks that run to a wide horizon. Howard’s Creek is also close and suitable for fishing or cooling your feet on a hot afternoon. In downtown White Sulphur Springs, Gustard's Bistro is ideal for casual bites, and Sam Snead's Tavern needs no explanation. Remember, pack a jacket for the evening, because porch sitting takes its time in White Sulphur Springs.
A Roman bath here, a cobblestone street there, and a little bit of Europe all around. West Virginia is surprising, but not unexpected. The people who built these towns, the Victorian facades and all, can track their roots to the first peoples who crossed the Atlantic from countries like Holland, England, and Germany. So while each continent might rival the other in competing for your patronage, there is a nod of respect from one to the other regarding what styles and atmospheres are worth spending one's time in.
