The Florida City That Became "Circus Capital of the World"
For close to a century now, Sarasota, Florida, has been known as the “Circus Capital of the World.” It’s a nickname that can be traced back to one man, and one very specific date in time: Christmas Day, 1927. It was then that circus legend John Ringling opened the doors to his circus’s brand-new winter quarters on the east side of this small Gulf Coast city and invited the public in for a behind-the-scenes look.
For just 25 cents for adults and a dime for kids (approximately $4.58 and $1.83 in today’s money), families could watch trapeze artists rehearse, see elephants and other exotic animals, and peer into the daily workings of the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus.
It was a calculated move. And one that cemented the reputation of what had started as a humble backyard act in Baraboo, Wisconsin, into the “Greatest Show on Earth.”
A Brief History of Ringling Bros Circus
Sons of an immigrant harness maker from Germany, the Ringlings gave their first official circus performance on May 19, 1884, under a modest 45-by-90-foot tent in their hometown of Baraboo. Each brother brought a different set of skills to the operation: Albert picked the acts, Charles produced the show, Otto managed the money, and John, the youngest and arguably the shrewdest, supervised transportation and logistics.
Their tactic of building audiences in smaller, often overlooked towns proved tremendously successful. So much so, that by 1907, they acquired their biggest rival, the Barnum & Bailey Circus, merging the two operations into the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Combined Shows in 1919.
When the Circus Came to Town
Sarasota was already well-known to John Ringling and his wife, Mable, by the time they moved their headquarters from Bridgeport, Connecticut. They’d been wintering on the Gulf Coast since 1909, gradually building a substantial real estate portfolio that would support Ringling’s grand vision to turn Sarasota into a major cultural and tourist destination.
Ringling had chosen this quiet little fishing village for its warm climate, its well-established railroad connections, and its potential to serve his ambition to leave a legacy that went well beyond the circus. And it paid off. By 1940, Ringling’s winter quarters in Sarasota were attracting 100,000 visitors a season, making it, at the time, one of Florida’s first major attractions.
But Ringling’s impact on Sarasota went well beyond entertainment. He built a half-mile causeway connecting the mainland to prime real estate on St. Armands Key. Ever the showman, he even used circus elephants to haul the timbers. The pinnacle of the development was a chic shopping and residential district, arranged in a circle as a nod to the three-ring circus that made him wealthy. When the John Ringling Causeway opened in 1926, Ringling himself led a parade across it, his circus band playing from a bandstand in the center of what’s now known as St. Armand’s Circle. And 100 years later, it’s still a classy place to hang out in Sarasota.
The Ringling Estate Then
Ringling didn’t just envisage a winter home for his circus animals and performers. It was to be his and Mable’s winter getaway, too, and the mansion that he had built on Sarasota Bay was as theatrical as the great circus leader himself.
Named Ca’ d’Zan (literally translated as “The House of John” in the Venetian dialect), it was completed in 1926 at a cost of $1.5 million (over $27 million today) and encompasses a vast 36,000 square feet of living and entertaining space, including 41 rooms, 15 of which were bathrooms. A massive marble terrace with stunning bay views was also added.
A passionate art collector, Ringling also constructed an Italian Renaissance-inspired museum on the estate grounds to house his ever-growing collections. Opened in 1931, the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art still houses many artworks by European masters, including Rubens, Gainsborough, and Velázquez.
The Ringling Estate Now
Upon his death in 1936, the entire estate - including his mansion, museum, and art collection - was bequeathed to the people of Florida, an incredible act of generosity that has ensured the Ringling legacy lives on. Now usually referred to simply as The Ringling, it’s one of the most-visited cultural complexes in the Southeast with 21 art galleries.
Other on-site attractions include the Historic Asolo Theater, the Bayfront Gardens, and the Circus Museum. Established in 1948, the Circus Museum’s collections are housed in two large buildings: the Historic Circus Galleries with its vintage costumes, ornate parade wagons, and the Ringlings’ private railcar; and the Tibbals Learning Center, home to the extraordinary Howard Bros. Circus Model.
Built over 50 years, this superb 3,800 square foot scale model contains more than 42,000 individually crafted pieces, including 55 rail cars, 850 feet of track, 130 wagons, and 1,500 miniature circus performers. There’s so much detail, in fact, that you could easily expect to spend several hours absorbing it all.
Make sure you dedicate time to also visit Ca’ d’Zan. Guided tours are available and provide a fascinating look at the wealthy lives of John and Mable Ringling, including several innovations for the time, such as electric stoves and refrigerators, as well as its own Otis elevator connecting its four floors. The grounds around this magnificent home, as well as around the museum, are simply stunning.
The Circus Ring of Fame
St. Armands Circle, the shopping and dining district that Ringling envisioned in 1926, remains one of Sarasota’s most popular tourist destinations. Accessible via the John Ringling Causeway from downtown Sarasota, it’s home to first-rate dining experiences like Café on St. Armands with its Mediterranean-inspired small plates and cocktails.
At the heart of the Circle is the Circus Ring of Fame, a circus-themed equivalent to Hollywood’s famous Walk of Fame. It’s worth a wander to browse the over 150 bronze wagon wheel-shaped plaques set around the park’s outer walkway, each recognizing individuals who have made significant contributions to circus arts and culture, including the five Ringling brothers (of course) and P.T. Barnum.
Your Sarasota Adventure Continues
Sarasota is an easy city to explore, and a visit built around its circus heritage is a fun way to get to know this corner of the Gulf Coast. For accommodations, the Art Ovation Hotel, Autograph Collection, is handily located in the heart of the Downtown Sarasota Historic District. A stay at this art-themed boutique hotel also puts you within walking distance of great restaurants like Selva Grill on Main Street, as well as the bayfront area.
For a splurge, check out the opulent St. Regis Longboat Key Resort. Set on 18 acres of beautiful beachfront on Longboat Key, this luxurious resort boasts a huge 20,000-square-foot spa, a unique on-site saltwater lagoon complete with stingrays and tropical fish, and several restaurants and bars. It also features design touches that reflect Sarasota’s circus heritage, including an oval-shaped ballroom inspired by the big top.
Another attraction you’ll want to check out is the Marie Selby Botanical Gardens. Walkable from the Art Ovation Hotel, it’s a must-visit for its more than 20,000 living plants, including rare orchids.
A City Built by the Big Top
When John Ringling decided to move his winter headquarters to Sarasota, he promised this Gulf Coast community would become “one of the most beautiful cities in Florida.” Nearly 100 years later, it’s clear that he delivered on his promise. What started as a shrewd business move became the defining chapter in Sarasota’s history, with the magnificent Ringling estate becoming a cultural landmark that John and Mable Ringling would most definitely be proud of.
