From Printer’s Alley to the Ryman, A Country Lover’s Nashville Road Trip

Nashville, Tennessee, is the home of country music and one of the world's premier entertainment districts. I recently made a road trip here and was pleasantly surprised at the combination of musical prowess, historic hotels, and heritage. These sites resonated with me more as a country music fan and as a writer.

Everywhere you look in Nashville, live music is playing 24 hours a day. These singer/songwriters dare to chase their dreams and follow their hearts, and that energy is felt in almost every show. I went to Nashville hoping to see the place where country music was born (well, at least made famous), but walked away with a different perspective from a creative standpoint.

The Countrypolitan Hotel

The Countrypolitan is the ideal destination for a weekend filled with country music history and heritage. On the corner of historic Printer's Alley and Union Street, you'll find the newly renovated, boutique-style Hotel Indigo Nashville at The Countrypolitan. The modern, stylish, spacious suites feature upscale amenities for self-care and comfort, making guests feel like the star of the show. I particularly enjoyed the black and white photos of country music legends adorning the walls of the walkways and lobby, which resemble the best features of a country home, and are also pet-friendly.

The lighting is just proper in the lobby that joins the dining area and stage. Bookshelves and brown leather couches wrap around a cozy setting that makes everyone feel at home. Whether for coffee and brunch or a sophisticated dinner and a cocktail, live music from local artists fills the lobby with authentic sounds emanating from the live stage, showcasing the hotel's commitment to elevating and presenting the Nashville scene to its guests in a modest, immersive experience.

The Countrypolitan Bar and Kitchen

Another sophisticated aspect of the Countrypolitan is its Countrypolitan Bar and Kitchen. The staff are accommodating and make you feel at home while curating high-end cocktails and serving food from a chef-inspired menu. I had the distinct pleasure of experiencing the Private Chef's Tasting Table, a relatively new feature at the restaurant that I hope will remain in place.

The private table next to the stage is the setting where the chef presents curated courses of exquisite, farm-to-table options, and the mixologist crafts drinks tableside that pair perfectly with the individual courses. Each meal is different, and that is a highlight, featuring seasonal ingredients. My table included a blend of elevated options interspersed with Southern ingredients, featuring a melon gazpacho, wood-grilled trout, and short ribs served over mashed potatoes. If you visit Nashville, book a Friday night here for one of the best dining experiences you will have.

Printer's Alley

The Countrypolitan sits on the corner of historic Printer's Alley, traditionally the center of Nashville's nightlife, with every type of bar and club imaginable. The lively place has a storied history, as do many places in this city. The dichotomy presents a tangible way to experience Nashville's evolution to what it is today. The alleyway started as a hitching post for men headed to the courthouse for business. By the turn of the 20th century, it was the epicenter of Nashville's printing industry, where it would gain even more prominence by 1915.

By this time, 13 publishers and 10 printers were housed in this area, including Tennessee's two largest newspapers, The Tennessean and the Nashville Banner. Hotels, restaurants, saloons, and eventually speakeasies would establish their presence here, transforming the alley into what it remains today: a funky and vibrant nightlife hub. Many performers set up shop here throughout the years, including Hank Williams, Waylon Jennings, and even Jimi Hendrix. Popular venues include Bourbon Street Blues and Boogie Bar, Skull's Rainbow Room, and Fleet Street Pub.

Downtown Sites and Downtown Lights

The Arcade is another historic landmark downtown, built in 1902 and modeled after the renowned Galleria Vittoria Emanuele in Milan, Italy. Local architects have restored the venue to its original glory with modern appeal. It spans an impressive five acres and two city blocks, serving as a mixed-use entertainment hub. If you are visiting for the first time, or the second or fifth, grab a drink at the Urban Cowboy Public Bar for an authentic downtown experience.

There are many museums to check out downtown, including the Johnny Cash Museum, the National Museum of African American Music, and Hatch Show Print. The first museum does a fantastic job of tracing African American music to its roots, featuring an immersive movie and a gallery filled with unique exhibits. Hatch Show Print is located in the Country Music Hall of Fame and is one of America's oldest working letterpress poster shops, dating back to 1879. The shop has created posters for many Grand Ole Opry stars, including Elvis, as well as modern legends.

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Two Bonus Trips

My grandmother introduced me to country music when I was a child, and its working-class, humble roots resonate with me today on many levels. This was one stop on my itinerary I was not going to miss, and I am glad I didn't. The five-story history museum is adorned and covered with gold and platinum records from every era and every artist. The tour begins on the fourth floor, tracing the earliest known roots of this genre, and concludes with modern variations.

Walking through this museum is like taking a trip back in time, with exhibits and movies that explain each era. There are legendary cars from Webb Pierce and Elvis Presley, and a room devoted to the queen of the genre, Miss Dolly Parton.

After my visit, I hopped aboard a bus to visit Historic RCA Studio B before I embarked on a self-guided tour of the Ryman Auditorium. Needless to say, it was hard for me to sleep that night with old songs and fun facts rolling around my brain. I was the proverbial "kid in the candy store" that day, and the memory of the experience will stay with me forever.

Historic RCA Studio B

Also known as the Studio of 1,000 Hits, RCA Studio B is a time capsule, as the interior has remained unchanged since the mid-1970s. The docent was informative and highlighted the epic history of this studio, where Elvis, Dolly Parton, and many others recorded their biggest hits. Visitors are also allowed to sit at the 1942 Steinway piano, which was Elvis's favorite, and it is the highlight of the tour for me. The historical significance of the building is a tangible feeling, one that can be seen, felt, and heard. This is where the Nashville sound came alive for me, and it is a feeling I won't soon forget.

The Ryman Auditorium

Visiting the "Mother Church of Country Music" has always been a dream of mine, and it did not disappoint. After watching an immersive movie about its history, visitors are invited to explore the seating area, which features original church pews that are over 100 years old. Learning the history of Lula C. Naff, who operated the Ryman for over 30 years, was fascinating. In an era marked mainly by oppression and sexism, this bold lady booked the country's biggest acts and made the Ryman what it is today. Without her, the Ryman would have been just a footnote in history, and she faced significant challenges as a woman entrepreneur in an era when she was not allowed to vote.

Landmark Eateries and Hot Chicken

Of course, all this walking around makes a person hungry, and Nashville has that covered, too. Breakfast at The Pancake Pantry is almost mandatory at least once, and the line of people pouring out the front door is your first clue. That's not to mean the waiting time is extended. The landmark since 1961 is accustomed to the attention and runs an efficient operation while maintaining consistent quality from the kitchen, a hallmark of any notable restaurant.

There are two locations, Downtown and Hillsboro Village. I dined at the downtown location and feasted on Caribbean Cakes—four large pancakes covered in pecans, sliced bananas, coconut, and adorned with a cherry. Trust me, I needed the energy for the trek ahead, as well as for visiting the Country Music Hall of Fame and the historic RCA Studio B. I also enjoyed breakfast at the quaint Midtown Cafe, a local favorite.

Midtown has been awarded the TOP 50 Best Southern Restaurants in the USA and offers a casual setting with fine dining at reasonable prices. I couldn't leave without ordering its Nashville Hot Chicken Biscuit, a Nashville tradition that will wake you up in the morning. Breakfast is not the only thing Midtown specializes in; kick back after a long day of exploration with a blank Angus steak or veal and pair the food with a fine selection of over 40 wines. The cafe embodies the spirit of Nashville with its casual vibe and sophisticated food offerings, ensuring you'll want to bookmark it for another visit to the city.

Nashville is a thriving city with numerous venues and historic sites to keep visitors entertained on multiple visits. The weekend I went, the Professional Bull Riders Inc. was in town, which added another exciting layer to the fun atmosphere. Downtown Nashville is a unique place, and the city has done a commendable job of preserving its history while embracing the future. It is well worth a visit. Although I actively seek off-the-beaten-path adventures on my wanderings and misadventures, Nashville was well worth the trip. Between the comfortable and stylish Countrypolitan, which oozes with country music history and fine dining, and its walkability to local sites, this is one of my favorite road trips, and I look forward to going back soon.