This South Dakota Scenic Byway Is The Road Trip Of A Lifetime

Way back in the 1930s, when Senator Peter Norbeck first surveyed South Dakota's Black Hills, he was told by engineers that his vision to build a road through the region's imposing granite peaks would never come to fruition. The terrain, these naysayers advised, was simply too rugged, the rock formations too imposing. And the grades? It was said to be too steep to tackle.

Unphased, the former state governor persisted, the end result being the completion of a 68-mile feat of engineering named in his honor: the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway. Undoubtedly one of America's most scenic drives, this bucket-list-ready road trip has everything from curving bridges to narrow tunnels and, perhaps best of all, incredible views of Mount Rushmore.

What to Expect on South Dakota's Best Byway

This magnificent byway forms a rough figure-eight through South Dakota’s Black Hills, combining portions of highways 16A, 244, 89, and 87. It encompasses three distinct scenic roads: the famous Iron Mountain Road with its pigtail bridges; Needles Highway with its incredible granite formations; and the Wildlife Loop Road.

While you could drive the entire route in three to four hours, take your time. Because Needles Highway closes in winter (typically October through April), the full byway is best experienced between late spring and early fall. If you do go slow, you'll be rewarded with sights of some of South Dakota's most treasured landscapes, including portions of Black Hills National Forest, much of Custer State Park, and, of course, Mount Rushmore National Memorial. All while climbing over pine-covered mountains, skirting crystal-clear alpine lakes, and winding through valleys where bison, elk, mountain goats, and even wild donkeys all graze.

Spectacular Iron Mountain Road

Starting from the historic town of Keystone at the base of Mount Rushmore, Highway 16A, aka Iron Mountain Road, leaves little doubt as to why it's considered one of America's most outstanding scenic byways. Extending 17 miles through a series of wooden pigtail bridges, unique spiral structures that gain elevation by looping over themselves like a corkscrew, these 1930s structures are a testament to engineering ingenuity at the time.

The real genius of Iron Mountain Road, though, is its unique network of tunnels. Norbeck designed three narrow tunnels, each just wide enough for a single vehicle, to perfectly frame Mount Rushmore in the distance. The Doane Robinson Tunnel, at 12 feet wide and 11 feet 4 inches high, provides the first glimpse of Rushmore centered in the opening like a well-composed photograph. The Scovel Johnson Tunnel, slightly narrower at 11 feet 6 inches wide and just 10 feet 9 inches high, offers another superb perspective.

Between these tunnels and bridges, the road features several spots to pull over and enjoy the views. Profile View pullout presents President George Washington's profile from an angle most visitors never see, while other stops reveal the surrounding Black Hills stretching to the horizon. Mountain goats frequently appear on the rocky outcroppings above the road, too, so have your cameras ready.

Threading Through Needles Highway

The 14-mile-long Needles Highway (Highway 87) is where you'll find Custer State Park's most dramatic terrain. Here, the road threads between granite spires that rise hundreds of feet into the sky like Gothic cathedral towers, and is at times so narrow that the rock walls seem close enough to touch.

The highway's most famous passage, Needles Eye Tunnel, is a doozy. Just 8 feet wide and 9 feet 9 inches high, it's the narrowest tunnel on the entire byway. It's so narrow, in fact, that RVs and large vehicles simply can't pass through, with most cars even having to tackle it carefully. Just before entering, there's a handy parking area with a path that leads up to the Needle's Eye formation itself.

The spectacular Cathedral Spires dominate the skyline along this section. A collection of granite pinnacles resembling organ pipes that rise up from the forest floor, they glow pink at sunrise and golden in the light of late afternoon. The road curves around these spires in a series of hairpin turns, each offering a new perspective of these 1.5-billion-year-old rocks.

Custer State Park's Sylvan Lake

Located at the junction where Needles Highway meets Highway 89, Sylvan Lake is undoubtedly a highlight of a visit to Custer State Park. One of five lakes here, it was dammed in 1891 and looks entirely otherworldly as its clear waters reflect the surrounding granite formations. Hop out for a hike along Sunday Gulch Trail through a narrow canyon with wooden bridges and stone steps carved into the rock. The easier one-mile Sylvan Lake Shore Trail loops around the lake, passing small beaches and rocky outcrops that serve as great picnicking spots.

If you can swing it, consider booking a stay at historic Sylvan Lake Lodge. Built in the 1930s, the dining experiences alone are worth stopping for and include stunning views across the water. Kayaks and paddleboats can be rented here during the summer months, and the lake's cold, clear waters are great for swimming if you're brave enough.

From Sylvan Lake, the byway continues through Custer State Park's dense ponderosa pine forests and rolling meadows. And bring your binoculars for a chance to view one of the world's largest free-roaming bison herds, although sometimes these 1,300 or so animals create "buffalo jams" when they wander onto the road.

The Wildlife Loop Road

The best views of bison, though, are to be found on the 18-mile Wildlife Loop Road. Early morning and late afternoon provide the best viewing experiences of bison and other animals, including pronghorn antelope, white-tailed and mule deer, elk, and sometimes even coyotes. The famous "begging burros" (descendants of working donkeys) are also interesting and will even approach cars in search of handouts.

The prairie dog towns along the loop provide entertainment of a different sort. Time it right and you'll see hundreds of these social rodents standing at their burrow entrances, chirping warnings as you pass.

The Wildlife Station Visitor Center, located along the loop, is worthy of a visit for its exhibits about the park's ecosystem and the history of wildlife conservation in the Black Hills. You'll also learn about successful efforts to restore species like elk and bighorn sheep that had been eliminated from the region by the early 1900s.

Why this byway belongs on your itinerary

If you're planning a road trip through South Dakota, make sure you include the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway in your itinerary. While not the longest scenic drive in the USA, it ranks up there with the likes of Wyoming's Beartooth Highway for sheer spectacle. Following Iron Mountain Road with its tunnels that frame Mount Rushmore, to Needles Highway with its ancient granite spires, every mile offers something worth stopping for. Add in the wildlife of Custer State Park and the beauty of Sylvan Lake, and you've got a road trip that you'll talk about for years to come.