This Wyoming Scenic Byway Is The Road Trip Of A Lifetime
When, in 1872, General Sheridan and the men under his command needed a route back to Billings, Montana, from the newly established Yellowstone National Park, an old hunter named Shuki Greer convinced him to cross the Beartooth Plateau through Wyoming. Though he knew it would be difficult, this more direct route saw them complete their journey in just two days.
More than six decades later, American engineers would follow that exact same path to construct one of America's most remarkable roads: the Beartooth Highway. Completed in 1936 and opened to the public a year later, this spectacular accomplishment transformed what had been a treacherous mountain crossing into a 69-mile scenic journey that legendary CBS correspondent Charles Kuralt dubbed “the most beautiful drive in America.” If you’re planning a trip to the Mountain States, here’s everything you need to know to get the most out of this stunning Wyoming scenic byway.
An Overview Of The Beartooth Highway
Starting in Red Lodge in Montana at 5,500 feet and climbing to Wyoming's Beartooth Pass at 10,947 feet, this All-American Road follows the state border through some of the Northern Rockies' most impressive landscapes. Traveling along U.S. Highway 212, you’ll weave through three National Forests, climb 5,400 feet, and tackle 12 miles of switchbacks, all while enjoying some of the country’s most spectacular mountain scenery.
While you can complete the route in just two hours without stops, don’t. Instead, allocate at least half a day (longer if you want to hike) to explore the route's numerous lookouts and alpine lakes.
As for when to visit, heavy snow usually keeps the pass closed from mid-October through late May, allowing access only during the summer months. Yes, it’s a narrow window, but with wildflowers, wildlife, and even the occasional summer snowfall, you can expect plenty of truly unique photo opportunities.
The Climb From Red Lodge
Starting from Red Lodge, a historic mining town that now serves as the eastern gateway to this mountain passage, the highway immediately begins its climb through Custer National Forest. The first 12 miles present the most dramatic elevation change, with the road climbing through a series of tight switchbacks carved into the mountainside. Rock Creek Vista, one of the first major tops, presents incredible views back toward the valley floor and the town far below.
As the road climbs even higher, the forest thins until, at around 9,000 feet, trees become sparse and gnarled, shaped by strong winds and a short growing season. Gardner Lake is on your right, one of dozens of alpine lakes that dot the plateau that were formed by glaciers and which can remain ice-covered well into July. The Gardner Lake pullout provides access to a short trail that leads to the water's edge, where you might spot brook trout near the shoreline.
The last stretch to Beartooth Pass involves a set of switchbacks so sharp and steep that drivers back in the day sometimes had to back up their cars to make it. Fortunately, cars these days can easily handle the climb, though the steep drop-offs can still be nerve-wracking.
At the Top Of The World
Beartooth Pass marks both the highway's summit and the state line, and at this elevation, you've entered a true alpine environment. Here, summer lasts just eight weeks, and frost can occur any night of the year. The Top of the World Store is a must-visit, so take a break and check out the route’s only general store.
The views here take in 20 peaks that exceed 12,000 feet, including Granite Peak, Montana's highest at 12,799 feet. The plateau seems to stretch out for miles, with highlights like exposed granite, snowfields, and countless small lakes. Although they’re easy to spot with the naked eye, remember to bring your binoculars.
As for flora and fauna, the tundra here is home to some of the planet's hardiest plants. Cushion plants grow close to the ground to soak up warmth, and in late June and July, alpine forget-me-nots and moss add a splash of color. Wildlife at this elevation includes golden eagles, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, and the occasional black bears and grizzly bears. The most commonly seen creatures, though, are pikas. These small, round-eared rodent-like mammals are fascinating to watch as they gather vegetation to dry for winter consumption.
The Wyoming Descent
West of the pass, the highway begins its gradual descent through Shoshone National Forest. This section is entirely different in character. Instead of dramatic switchbacks, it follows the same high plateau with its many lakes that you saw from your lofty viewpoint earlier.
Beartooth Lake, one of the largest and most accessible bodies of water, is seven miles from the summit and features a campground and boat launch. A day-use area provides picnic tables and toilets. The views across the lake to Beartooth Butte, a massive limestone formation that rises 1,500 feet above the water, make it worth stopping if only for a quick selfie (but linger longer if you can).
A little further along, Island Lake and Long Lake are also popular for camping and trout fishing, though the short ice-free season means fish rarely provide bragging rights. Built in 1942, the Clay Butte Fire Lookout, accessible via a three-mile gravel road from the main highway, provides 360-degree views of the surrounding wilderness.
Near mile marker 27, a signed pullout marks the view of Beartooth Falls. Here, snowmelt cascades down the forested mountainside, an especially impressive sight in early summer when runoff peaks.
The Home Stretch
At the junction with Wyoming Highway 296, you’ll face a choice. The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway branches south toward Cody, following the dramatic Clarks Fork Canyon through landscapes that rival the Beartooth for sheer spectacle. A good option is combining both routes into a loop, using either Red Lodge or Cody as a base. The route drops quickly into desert terrain, providing a stark contrast to the alpine environment behind you.
If you continue westward on Highway 212, you’ll pass through Cooke City and Silver Gate, Montana. Both serve the northeast gateway to Yellowstone National Park. The final stretch into Yellowstone follows Soda Butte Creek through increasingly dense forest.
The Bottom Line
Whether you’re an experienced outdoor adventurer or an enthusiastic road-tripper, the Beartooth Highway is a bucket-list must-do. This stunning 69-mile route will give you a taste of spectacular mountain scenery and wilderness, all from the comfort of your car. And if you do feel the urge to get out and explore, several trails are ready to be tackled. Whether you visit for the fishing, the photos, the trails, or just the drive, the Beartooth Highway is undoubtedly the Montana-to-Wyoming road trip of a lifetime.
