The Best Small Town In Quebec For A 3-Day Weekend
The small town of Baie-Saint-Paul has been luring artists, foodies, and weekend wanderers for decades. Located in the Charlevoix region, where the Gouffre River meets the St. Lawrence, this quaint community is the site of the first Cirque du Soleil performance. The town still serves as a cultural and artistic hub today, and is anchored by a vast range of media found at the Musée d’art contemporain de Baie-Saint-Paul. From there, it has easy access to some of Quebec’s most dramatic scenery, such as the Grands-Jardins National Park. So, for those seeking a weekend getaway where pretty much everything’s within easy reach of your hotel, Baie-Saint-Paul delivers in spades.
Charlevoix’s Cultural Heart
Baie-Saint-Paul is famous in Canada for its connection to the internationally acclaimed Cirque du Soleil. It was here in 1984 that this pop culture phenomenon (a modern take on traditional circuses) staged its first performance during a local street festival by tapping into a creative spirit that persists to this day.
Take a walk along Rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste, the town’s main drag, and pop into art establishments like Iris Art Gallery (Galerie d'art Iris) or Galerie d'art GB Geneviève et Gilles Bédard to check out local works inspired by the town and its surrounding scenery. A short walk away, the state-of-the-art Baie-Saint-Paul Museum of Contemporary Art (Musée d’art contemporain de Baie-Saint-Paul) is a must-visit and houses well over 3,000 works of contemporary Quebec art and regularly hosts rotating exhibitions.
The extremely pretty Church of Baie-Saint-Paul (Église de Baie-Saint-Paul) has been the town’s spiritual and architectural focal point since the parish was established in the early 1700s. Constructed in 1714, it’s equally attractive inside and is open to newcomers during its regular Catholic services and masses.
The Food & Drink Scene
Rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste is also where you go to enjoy food and drinks inspired by the region. Cidrerie Vergers Pedneault sells delicious ciders and ice ciders produced on nearby Isle-aux-Coudres. Its staff is known for their generous samplings during tasting tours (you should, of course, buy some to take home with you).
Boulangerie À Chacun son Pain, a bakery on Boulevard Monseigneur de Laval, is popular with locals and does sandwiches-to-go and picnic baskets, a perfect solution if you’re looking to spend a day out in the countryside. And for coffee drinkers, seek out Café Charlevoix for its espressos and on-site roasted beans you can take home with you.
To top off your weekend away with an upmarket dining experience, book a table at Le Mouton Noir. Open since 1976 on Rue Sainte-Anne, this charming bistro features a wonderful riverside terrace and an inspired menu built around local game, duck, and those famous Charlevoix cheeses. For delicious house-brewed beer alongside charcuterie platters and poutines, Le Saint-Pub - Microbrasserie Charlevoix on Rue Racine is a popular gastropub that’s been around since 1998.
Getting Outdoors
In Baie-Saint-Paul, nature’s never far away. Easily accessed from downtown, the 4.3-mile (7 km) Sentier du Gouffre trail follows the Gouffre River through scenic marshland and beaver-flooded areas and is level enough for most abilities. If you’re visiting in winter, bring your snowshoes as the route is groomed.
For something a little more dramatic, Grands-Jardins National Park (Parc national des Grands-Jardins) is about 30 minutes north by car and is well worth the extra gas. Part of the beautiful Charlevoix UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the popular Mont du Lac-des-Cygnes hike provides panoramic views across a crater formed by a meteorite impact some 350 million years ago.
Whatever trail you pick, it’s worth noting they do get busy in the summer months (July and August), so consider hiking in May or June to avoid crowds. For leaf-peepers, early to mid-October presents peak fall colors.
Where to Stay
There’s no shortage of first-rate accommodation options in Baie-Saint-Paul, regardless of your budget. If you can swing it, book your stay in the cozy old Maison Otis. Set in an old stone inn on Rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste, this design-leaning boutique hotel features just 17 rooms and suites, some with separate seating areas and chic four-poster beds. A hearty breakfast is also available.
Though located on the edge of town, Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix is another great option. Bright, modern, and designed by the co-founder of Cirque du Soleil, this plush hotel was built on former farmland and features a multi-pavilion complex where barn-inspired architecture meets contemporary flourishes.
The rooms reference the property’s agricultural past, with nice touches like woven rugs and wooden rocking chairs adding to the ambience. Be sure to book a session at the on-site Spa Nordique with its thermal pools and massage packages. The restaurant, Le Bercail, has an open kitchen that makes use of seasonal Charlevoix produce.
Quebec’s Best Weekend Getaway
Getting to Baie-Saint-Paul for a weekend away is part of the fun. The drive from Quebec City takes an hour and follows the north shore of the St. Lawrence River through rolling farmland and past the pilgrimage church at Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré. If you’d rather sit back and enjoy the scenery, the Train de Charlevoix operates from June through early November and stops at Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix. However you arrive, a long weekend in Baie-Saint-Paul is certainly time well spent.
