St. Augustine's Nights of Lights

As a native Floridian and a history buff, my favorite destination has always been St. Augustine's historic district. I lived there for a period of time in a different life, and no matter how far I roam, I always find an excuse to come back. Walking the centuries-old roads, I think about whose hands have grazed the same walls that fill the lens of my camera as I shoot photographs of the Peck House and others that have been ingrained in my mind since I was a teenager.

It is rare for travelers and writers ever to feel comfortable enough to consider themselves "at home" in most places. However, I have always felt that fleeting feeling in St. Augustine, and I suspect I always will. I recently visited with my mother for the city's annual Nights of Lights celebration, where over three million lights adorn the historic district in a yearly tradition that attracts thousands of visitors. They illuminate the trees and Spanish architecture, still stalwart and strong after nearly 500 years, in a subtle way that highlights the season's importance and the city's significance. It was my first time experiencing this spectacle in person, and the celebratory air cemented the moment in my mind.

Traveling Old Roads With New Sights

As the nation's oldest city, St. Augustine is home to many original landmarks, including the Oldest Wooden School House, the Old Jail Museum, and the iconic Castillo de San Marcos National Monument. The pedestrian-only cobblestone roads of the historic district recall the past, inviting people to tread the same pathways that the Spanish traveled so many years ago, particularly on St. George Street and Aviles Street, the oldest in the United States. No matter how many times one visits the "Ancient City", there is always something new to discover, making it the perfect place for a traditional Spanish-inspired holiday.

St. George Street welcomed me with open arms after my extended absence through its city gates, the main artery of the Spanish colony and sightseeing hub. Although the path is, ironically, teeming with tourist shops, it is the antique buildings and walls that call to me like a long-lost friend. The narrow path led me to Plaza de la Constitución, home to the Public Market Place, circa 1598, the centerpiece of the annual Nights of Lights and the reason for my visit.

Origin of the Nights of Lights Tradition

St. Augustine's Nights of Lights originated in a Spanish tradition of displaying a single white candle in a windowsill during Christmastime as a symbol of welcome and hope. The city's annual tradition began in 1993, when forward-thinking City Commissioner Bill Lennon and his family would stop after Mass downtown to enjoy the lights of a sign posted at the foot of the Bridge of Lions, which read "Feliz Navidad" at Christmastime.

Lennon noticed that the local businesses, which are usually packed with tourists, were shuttered due to the colder months. He had the idea that illuminating the buildings' edges with white lights would not only draw people to the local shops but also give the historic district a holiday feel. He took his idea to the Chamber of Commerce's downtown council, and it took off as a way to promote local businesses and present a distinctive way to experience the holidays, paying homage to St. Augustine's Spanish colonial roots.

A Hidden Bulb in the All-White Lights

According to a bit of local lore, there is one single red bulb among the millions of white lights. The story asserts that one of the men hanging the lights inserted a red bulb for his daughter to find once the lights were illuminated. It was such a heart-warming story that after the gentleman retired, the city continues the tradition today. The rebel bulb is rumored to always be hidden in the Plaza de Constitución.

How to Spend an Evening at the Celebration

In 2006, the city decided to build the Historic Downtown Parking Facility, a three-story parking garage on Cordova Street to contain the influx of traffic during the busy season. While I thought it made economic sense, I was aghast to hear that the Ancient City was going to build what amounts to a skyscraper in the heart of the historic district, a crucial faux pas to the area's heritage. Not to mention a prototypical Florida concrete eyesore that would forever taint the very fabric of St. Augustine. Fortunately, I was wrong, and after using it during the Nights of Lights, I realized how advantageous it is to the area, travelers, and the community.

The garage is in an ideal location, within a half mile of downtown attractions, which aligns with the pedestrian-friendly aesthetic. It is also not visible from the heritage district, thereby preserving the immersive excitement the historic buildings, sites, and roads present. Happily, St. George Street was a short walk away from the garage, and as I entered its stone gates, I felt the tranquility that the vintage Spanish architecture and familiar sights, like the Taberna del Caballo, always evoke in me.

Plaza de la Constitución

St. George Street leads to the Plaza de la Constitución, the town's focal point and public square for hundreds of years. Once the Public Marketplace, where freshwater and merchants served Spanish settlers, it now serves as the epicenter of the Nights of Lights celebration. The plaza is at the base of the Bridge of Lions and is home to the city's Christmas tree. A war memorial, gazebo, and city well, along with historical markers, are also here, providing a sense of the past and a peaceful respite. Many notable structures, including Cathedral Basilica, Trinity Episcopal, and the Government House, surround the park, giving it an ethereal quality. The gazebo is a nice touch, presenting a platform for sightseers to climb its steps and view the surrounding structures from a higher vantage point.

The centerpiece of the park during the Nights of Lights is the Christmas tree, which this year is adorned with purple and white lights that come on at sundown. Standing in the middle of the plaza, there are two narrow roads on either side, lined with ancient trees decorated with white lights, and small retailers that remind the looker of times gone by, such as Cutter and Cutter Fine Art. The white lights illuminate a path across the Bridge of Lions, adorning its columns and treetops along the vintage lanes, creating a beautiful ambience that invites visitors to explore the well-traveled roads in a different way.

Quirky Dining Options Near the Plaza de la Constitución

There are times and festivals when St. Augustine residents and merchants throw excellent parties where patrons can drink and dance with period actors dressed as colonialists, pirates, and sea wenches. The area is also a place of deep reflection, giving visitors a chance to contemplate history and their own lives in a way that is hard to replicate. Such is the Christmas season, where coffee and cocoa take the place of cocktails and beer, underscoring the vast cultural experience that makes St. Augustine so noteworthy.

Cathedral Place is the road coming down from the Bridge of Lions beside Plaza de la Constitución. It has a notable collection of eateries and coffee shops specializing in gluten-free and vegan options, and its location is ideal for all crowds celebrating the Nights of Lights. Just before dusk, we had dinner in one such place, the Grilled Cheese Gallery. The sign is hard to miss, being adorned with a pink unicorn and a menu that would make any chef jealous. The artsy vibe of Warhol paintings and black walls paired well with the gourmet sandwiches that hit the spot before we set off on our journey.

Afterward, we grabbed an excellent cup of joe at The Kookaburra, a fun and funky coffee shop specializing in Australian pies and classic brews. The coffee was the perfect companion for a stroll under the Christmas lights, especially for my first experience, and I let the atmosphere take me where it wanted, putting an exclamation point on the evening's events.