An Afternoon Or More in Creemore, Ontario
Destined for Georgian Bay, I had the choice of hugging Lake Huron's sparkling shoreline all the way to the Bruce Peninsula and then cutting over, taking the speedy approach through Toronto (traffic pending), or criss-crossing Ontario's overlooked agrarian core. Scanning the routes suggested by Google Maps, the little en route village of Creemore caught my eye, motivating me to take the inland approach. I remembered how, back in my university days, a rep from the Creemore Springs Brewery hooked up my three-piece band with free packs of beer. Not only did this validate our open-mic exploits, but it introduced me to the early days of Canada's now-ubiquitous craft beer scene. Two decades later, I figured it was finally time to pay Creemore a visit. What I found was a lively, sepia-toned downtown that had sprouted around the brewery, plus a tapestry of lavender and wine producers that had blossomed in the fertile periphery. At first, I thought this was a simple, pseudo-nostalgic pit-stop, but it morphed into a full afternoon (plus a return follow-up) of wholesome exploration.
Welcome to Creemore
Once a village, Creemore (derived from the Gaelic words, croí mór, meaning "big heart") is now part of Clearview Township. With that said, with 1,200 residents, a distinct aesthetic, and a consistent events calendar, Creemore very much operates as its own community. Located 20 minutes south of Collingwood and the Blue Mountains, 125 kilometers north of downtown Toronto, and 40 km west of Barrie, this beacon of Simcoe County is perfectly positioned to draw weekend crowds. At the same time, being on the eastern edge of the Niagara Escarpment, with easy-going country roads leading in/out and numerous coffee/light-bite patios along Mill Street, Creemore attracts steady streams of cyclists every day of the week.
Settled in 1842, then formally founded three years later by Irishman, Edward Webster (after a veritable Odyssey to get there), Creemore remained a sleepy spot for quite some time. That is until August of 1987, when Toronto businessman, John Wiggins, utilizing the town's pristine spring water and abundant retail space, converted an old hardware store into Creemore Springs Brewery. As the brewery expanded down Mill Street, other independent businesses followed suit. Now, Creemore's commercial core consists of three cafes, a French restaurant, a Michelin-star Asian-fusion restaurant, a chocolatier, a bright pink book store and plenty more. No chains, no fast-food, not even a corporate gas station in these parts.
Bookending Mill Street is Creemore's Village Green (an open-air concert venue, market square, and general hang-out spot) and Mad River Park, which introduces the town's lifeline waterway and bucolic greenery. One block away, next to the public library, Creemore's Historic Log Cabin and Creemore Jail (the smallest jail in North America) welcome curious passersby at any time. The log cabin is bordered by a lovely "cottage garden," and the jail door sits ajar, as does one of the cells within.
Coffee, Books & Beer
My first order of business, as it often is upon arrival in a new town, was to grab a coffee. For this, I followed the morning peloton to Bank Cafe. The interior was adorable, the exterior continuously populated, and most importantly, the coffee and sandwich combo hit the spot (and I came to understand that the carrot-cake is a slam dunk). I also gave Creemore Bakery & Cafe a whirl a few days later. After that butter tart, I honestly can't pick a favorite. You might just have to leapfrog between the two. But that's what's great about Creemore, if you stay for an afternoon, you can pretty much hit every spot along Mill Street.
Caffeine acquired, you might want to check out Curiosity House Books, aka "The Pink House," for something fresh to read on the next patio. Alternatively, if your sweet tooth is kicking into gear, the YF Patissier Chocolatier certainly caught the attention of those aforementioned cyclists. Or, if it's beer o'clock, Creemore's crown jewel will happily oblige. These days, Creemore Springs Brewery takes up the better part of an entire block. There's one building for the actual brewing, another for the taproom, take-away sales, and merch, and another still for additional seating, inside and out. I love Creemore Springs' branding (i.e. "Fire-brewed with spring water) and their simplistic approach of four core beers and three seasonal selections. Oh yes, and the products are delicious!
Lavender & Wine
Speaking of Creemore's delicious indulgences, don't miss out on the farms and vineyards hiding in plain sight just minutes outside of town. I first went to Purple Hill Lavender Farm, where they sell bundles of the enchanting flowers, scented candles, and lavender popsicles from their cozy shop, and offer $15 tours of the grounds (see below).
Next, I swung from the southern outskirts of Creemore about equidistant to its northern reaches, where I received a warm greeting from the owners of Creemore Hills Winery. Despite overlooking the "by appointment" format of this small-scale, family-run vineyard, Catherine fixed me up with a bottle of 2020 Meritage red, which I sampled alongside sweeping views and great company. Fortuitously, the boys in the barn recommended that I check out another lavender farm in their vicinity that hadn't yet appeared on Google Maps, or in the local brochures.
Skirting out to the rolling fields of Glen Huron, I entered Fennario Meadows. Having been introduced to the owner, Jim, over the phone, it was his student helper, Kira, who showed me the rows of French and English crops (used separately for cosmetic and edible purposes), as well as the rustic workshop in which they produce essential oils. Fennario doesn't yet accommodate public tours, but their products are for sale online (terrebleu.ca) and in select retail stores, and they're open to seasonal workers/volunteers who want to roll up their sleeves and leave with sweet scents under their fingernails.
Base Camp & Side Adventures
If you're looking to build a whole weekend around Creemore, here are a few more satellite attractions to take stock of.
Collingwood
Creemore has an array of little inns and B&Bs, but is otherwise light on standard accommodations. So if availability is lacking, or bigger hotels/resorts desired, consider staying in Collingwood. Situated just 25 minutes north of Creemore, right on the waters of Georgian Bay, Collingwood acts as a base of operations for Muskoka and the Bruce Peninsula alike. But with a bustling downtown and four-season recreation, thanks to the adjacent Blue Mountain ski resort, you might just want to stay put (Creemore side-trip notwithstanding).
Georgian Bay Islands National Park
Further up the northeast shore of the "sixth Great Lake," Georgian Bay Islands National Park (also a UNESCO Biosphere) begs to be explored. Day-trippers can reach Beausoleil Island, the only place in the park open to the public, via water taxis docked in Honey Harbor. For a better sense of the hiking trails, scenery, and wildlife (note that there are both black bears and rattlesnakes on this rock), check out my recent article.
Bruce Trail
If you're craving exploration, but don't have time allotted for the Bruce Peninsula or Muskoka, take heart in knowing that the Bruce Trail, Canada's oldest and longest marked footpath, meanders near Creemore. In fact, it passes right behind Fennario Meadows. Back when I hiked it in 2009, this was still a dairy farm. Present day hikers, therefore, can appreciate the pleasant aroma emanating from the sea of purple plants.
CreeMORE
Driving home with a cooler full of craft beer, a bottle of small-batch wine, an assortment of artisanal lavender products, and a phone full of photos showing a mix between a small town frozen in time and European-esque surroundings, I had a pretty darn positive view of Creemore. This village benefits from a favorable position on the Niagara Escarpment, close to the national parks and ski resorts of Georgian Bay, but is just far enough out of the way to avoid passive tourist traffic. I didn't anticipate that Creemore would be such a destination. For despite its humble footprint, the quality of businesses along Mill Street, the variety of peripheral attractions, and the amiability of its residents means that the more time you can give to Creemore, the better off you'll be.
