The Best Small Town In Minnesota For A 3-Day Weekend
There’s a certain feeling that comes from cruising north along Highway 61 after the hustle of Duluth, through the tunnels of Silver Bay, and beyond the ski slopes of Lutsen. Cell phone reception becomes patchy in the air that gets crisper and colder. The waters of Lake Superior stop being just a body of water in front of you and start to feel more like the force of nature you’d associate with the ocean. By the time you reach the fishing village of Grand Marais, you'll feel like you are no longer in Minnesota but in another realm altogether. Talking about a three-day weekend getaway, there are not many places in the Midwest that come close to it. This is a world of artists, commercial fishermen, and those who love lakefront recreation.
Where to Stay in Town
To capture the essence of Grand Marais, you have to stay somewhere that has the personality, too. You won't see high-rise hotels obscuring the view here. Rather, you are going to discover The Mayhew Inn. The Mayhew is located right in downtown Grand Marais's walking district and has the appearance of a friend's chic loft with fabulous taste rather than just another hotel. It’s the only boutique hotel in town that captures an industrial aesthetic with a North Shore feel. For many, the best feature of The Mayhew Inn is the rooftop bar. Sitting there with a cocktail in hand and the view of the harbor and Gunflint Trail bluffs in front of you puts you in the best spot in the county.
If you are willing to take a fifteen-minute drive outside of town, you can swap out the boutique hotel aesthetic in favor of one that’s more out of a Wes Anderson movie. Naniboujou Lodge may be considered a resort, but that hardly does this place justice. The resort opened in the late 1920s and functioned as a private club with members including Babe Ruth. The resort’s greatest feature alone would be worth the trip, a dining hall that’s a cavernous, multi-colored cave featuring the largest fire-hearth from ‘native’ stone in the entire state.
Taking a Sample of the North Shore Dining
The food in Grand Marais has evolved beyond the simple fried fish basket, although you can still find excellent examples of that. What is surprising is that in a town with only about 1,300 permanent residents, there are many fantastic dining options. Some options are only open seasonally in the warmer months, so be sure to check before you go.
World’s Best Donuts is your first destination. Don’t be skeptical of the name; the line of patrons winding around the tiny red house on Wisconsin Street tells you what you need to know. This family-owned, famous stop in town is known for The Skizzle, a twisted, sugar-coated fry bread. It’s dense and chewy. Plan your trip when they are open, as this seasonal shop operates from May to October.
For dinner, walk over to Angry Trout Cafe. This eatery has literally taken over an old fishing shanty right on the shore—it’s so close that during strong winds, the spray from the water gets blown through the windows. The menu here depends on the catch from the shores they serve. By "Lake Superior Herring," that’s precisely what they are. This business prides itself on being environmentally focused—from compost packaging to solar panels installed atop the rooftop.
But in the evening, move across the river to the Voyageur Brewing Company. With only a handful of other breweries this far north in the country, the Voyageur has become the living room of the town. The taproom has ample seating, with communal tables for socializing. The Devil’s Kettle IPA ticks the box; however, the atmosphere keeps you there. It’s loud, cozy, and doesn’t take itself too seriously.
Taking in the Town’s History
Grand Marais wasn’t developed for tourism, but saw significant traffic due to its natural harbor placed amid miles of rocky shoreline. This allowed it to be central in the transportation of timber, fish, and other industrial enterprises. Within a home built in 1896 and preserved by the Cook County Historical Society, you can get your best look at the region's history by visiting the Cook County History Museum.
This isn't one of those museums filled with wall plaques. For starters, you get a look at the illustrious history of the fishing industry with the main Lightkeeper's House exhibit in the museum. In addition, you can have a long look at the life and achievements of Cook County resident and Civil War hero Colonel William Colvill.
Exploring Natural Splendor
You cannot come here without interacting with the landscape. The town is surrounded by two notable natural features that shape the landscape. The most well-known spot is Artist’s Point. To access this spot, you need to walk by the Coast Guard station and out onto the breakwall that accesses the lighthouse. The walkway here is made of concrete, but during a storm, waves pound it with terrifying force. To the right of the walkway exists a ‘tombolo,’ or sandbar that connects the mainland and the island, covered in cedar trees twisted from the sea and volcanic rock that dates back centuries. Artist’s Point gets its name from many locals who set up easels in hopes of capturing captivating sunrises and sunsets here.
But if you are looking for another place to explore, take a drive up to Pincushion Mountain. A quick drive up Gunflint Trail reveals a trailhead that has the best "bang for the buck" in the area. You do not have to be a super-advanced mountaineer to attempt this route; the trails are well-marked and proceed up to an accessible and maintained path. The reward is a gigantic granite plateau peering over the entire town, the entire harbor area, and the seemingly infinite waters of Lake Superior.
When the Town Comes Alive
The solitude alone would be enough to recommend the area. But the festivals are proof that Grand Marais knows how to have fun, too. The biggest festival in this little burg is the Fisherman's Picnic in August. It's essentially one gigantic class reunion for the entire North Shore; there's even a parade that closes down the highway.
The Winterers' Gathering and Arctic Film Festival in November celebrates the culture of snow. Organized by the North House Folk School, which has a campus dedicated entirely to the traditional crafts of the North, such as boat-building and basket-weaving, this festival includes screenings of documentaries on winter wilderness survival and adventure stories, a gear swap meet, and a community dance.
A Place to Experience True Minnesota Living
Grand Marais isn’t somewhere you see if you want to cross things off a list over a long three-day weekend. It is a place to get lost and find yourself, exploring nature in a way only locals here do. Whether you are coming from the metropolis of Duluth or you are just exploring what lies along Highway 61, there is much to discover in Grand Marais. Here, you can find the crafts of the north, the proud history of guiding ships and vessels to safe harbor from the shoreline, and the passion for the daily catch from Lake Superior. Three days can fly by here.
