This Oregon Town Is Older Than the State Itself

Oregon’s story begins with human occupation dating back at least 18,000 years, and it took a new turn when Lewis and Clark arrived in 1805. At the heart of this story is Astoria, established in 1811, making it the state’s oldest town and the country’s oldest permanent settlement west of the Rockies. The land where Astoria now stands has witnessed it all: expansive Native American trade networks, early American exploration, Oregon Trail pioneers, devastating fires, and a community determined to rise again. This account chronicles Astoria’s history and the trials and triumphs it has seen across the centuries.

Indigenous Peoples and the Lewis and Clark Expedition

Before Lewis and Clark arrived in 1805, the Clatsop people lived in the area that is now Astoria, with several villages stretching south of the Columbia River and near the Pacific Coast as far as Tillamook Head. The Clatsop were also neighbored by the Chinook, who lived along the northern banks of the river, and the Nehalem, who lived south of Tillamook Head. These groups were known for their astute trading skills, communicating with numerous tribes along the Pacific Coast through a mix of several tribal languages, which allowed them to build a vast trading network. When Lewis and Clark arrived, the Native groups welcomed the explorers with warmth and friendliness, quickly establishing strong trading ties with the crew. In fact, Clark noted in his journal that the Clatsop and Chinook would come to the fort nearly every day to trade.

Lewis and Clark would spend the winter of 1805 and 1806 just south of Astoria, in a fort they named Fort Clatsop. While the expedition hoped a ship would arrive to take them east, none came, leaving them to endure an extremely cold and rainy winter before heading back east. When the crew finally departed, they left the fort and its contents to Coboway, a Clatsop leader, noting that it was in gratitude for his hospitality and kindness.

John Jacob Astor and the Pacific Fur Company

Between 1810 and 1811, John Jacob Astor sent the Astor Expedition on behalf of his Pacific Fur Company to establish a fur trading post in the Northwest. Known as Fort Astoria, it became the first permanent American settlement on the Pacific Coast, marking a major milestone in exploration and later playing a pivotal role in supporting US claims to the land. In 1811, a British explorer navigated the entirety of the Columbia River, arriving two months after the Pacific Fur Company’s ship had already begun to establish the fort.

Despite the fur company’s initial success, it eventually failed and was sold to the British, alongside the fort, in 1813. Although the Treaty of 1818 established joint occupancy of the West by Britain and the United States, the fur trade remained under British control until the mid-1840s, when American pioneers began arriving via the Oregon Trail. In 1846, following the Oregon Treaty, Britain ceded all land south of the 49th parallel.

The Book That Put Astoria on the Map

In 1834, Astor approached bestselling author Washington Irving with a proposal to write a book about the Astoria Expedition. Irving accepted the offer and completed the book within a few months. In a letter to his nephew, Irving explained that he wanted the book to go beyond colonial and commercial aspects, telling the story of the Columbia River and everything west of the Rockies, including the lives of traders, trappers, hunters, Native Americans, and others. In 1836, the book was published, becoming a best seller almost overnight. It was translated into French, German, and Dutch, and was reprinted 25 times before Irving passed away in 1859. This literary success helped cement the region in the American imagination, as Irving emphasized its potential for economic growth and influence.

Astoria’s Boom Years

As the Oregon Territory continued to grow, Astoria grew with it. The city became known as an excellent port, with the river serving as a key transportation route into the interior of the country. In 1847, the first post office west of the Rockies was placed in Astoria, and in 1876, the town was officially incorporated. Scandinavian and Chinese immigrants flocked to the area, with many Scandinavian families working in fishing and Chinese immigrants working in the cannery industry. The town’s success was interrupted in 1883 and again in 1922, when devastating fires ripped through it. Despite these fires, the community came together to rebuild, and much of downtown today reflects the architectural style of the 1920s.

Astoria Today

Today, Astoria is home to just under 10,000 residents. The economy is largely dependent on the area’s natural resources, including fish, timber, and shipping. As a hub for commercial and government activities in the region, Astoria has built up a sizeable retail and wholesale trade as well. Affectionately referred to as “Little San Francisco,” tourism has become an important aspect of the town’s economic growth.

There are numerous attractions for visitors in Astoria to enjoy. The Columbia River Maritime Museum exhibits a wide array of maritime artifacts, seafaring vessels, and artwork. From May through September, the Astoria Riverfront Trolley offers rides in a restored early 20th-century trolley car. Another highlight is the Astoria Column, a monument commemorating the efforts and hardships of the area’s first settlers. Travelers can also visit a replica of Lewis and Clark’s Fort Clatsop, which today is part of the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park.

Final Thoughts

Over the centuries, Astoria has seen dramatic change. From its earliest Clatsop inhabitants to the arrival of Lewis and Clark, through disputes between Britain and America, it became a stronghold for pioneers. Fires would later devastate the town, but time and determination rebuilt it into the community it is today. As Astoria continues to evolve, it will no doubt encounter new challenges, but it will always hold its place as Oregon’s oldest town.