Authentic Walton County On Florida’s Other Side
While many envision Florida as one big amusement park, there is another, quieter side to see. This other side features natural beauty and a rustic charm that defined the Sunshine State long before the amusement parks moved in. Now, there is nothing inherently wrong with family-fun events. Still, smaller towns like DeFuniak Springs in North Walton County bring people to yesteryear while offering modern amenities and attractions.
On a recent trip to Walton County, located on the Emerald Coast, I noticed the dichotomy between two cities in the same county, separated by only 11 miles geographically, yet they are worlds apart. This is not to say that they are in competition, because they aren't; however, they complement each other nicely, offering visitors a glimpse of both sides of Florida within a short drive, making this one of the most fascinating areas along Florida's Panhandle.
The Rustic Side of Walton County
The charming and rustic town of DeFuniak Springs is a throwback to Florida, named after the railroad magnate who brought the Louisville and Nashville Railroad (L&N) to the area in the early 20th century. The historic district is compact, with Baldwin Avenue serving as the main strip. This strip leads past local shops and eateries toward Circle Drive, which winds around Lake DeFuniak. You have to cross the iconic railroad track, heading the opposite way, to get there.
The lakefront road is so named because the lake is one of only two almost perfectly circular spring-fed lakes in the world. The tracks feature a red railroad car bearing the L&N logo, situated in front of the Walton County Historical Museum in the former depot. This preserved history adds character to the district and speaks volumes about the community's commitment to its maintenance. This historical site serves as a gateway of sorts for the vast array of heritage sites surrounding the lake.
Unique History and the Chautauqua Society
It amazes me how diverse the history around Circle Avenue is, starting with the Chautauqua Society. The organization began as a means to educate ministers in academic subjects, including mathematics, English, and others, for a more well-rounded education.
There are several markers denoting the historical buildings, along with a sign describing the purpose of the society and its prominence in Northwest Florida. The centerpiece is the Chautauqua Hall of Brotherhood, which was once a 4,000-seat auditorium. The hall opened in 1909 as a winter gathering place for the society, which originated in New York. The campus was built to resemble the capital of the United States.
As you pass the train depot, you see the Chautauqua Tourism board, which describes the society and the buildings along Circle Avenue. Historic pieces include wooden sidewalks, a tabernacle, the Methodist Episcopal Church, First Presbyterian Church, and St. Agatha's Episcopal Church. Just past the sign denoting the landmarks is the public library, which has a unique history all its own.
The Walton DeFuniak Library
The Walton DeFuniak Library is the oldest continuously operating library in its original structure in the state of Florida. The tiny building is flanked by a tranquil reading garden, offering lake views and manicured landscaping. The lobby is the original part of the building, and the other rooms have been added over time, including a downstairs area equipped with 3D printers. Sub histories exist in the building, including more than 60 ancient weapons adorning the walls from the Medieval Period to the late 18th century. There is also a signed first edition of "To Kill a Mockingbird" by Harper Lee, a friend of one of the librarians. The book was in circulation for 50 years before the signature was discovered, yet it remains in good condition.
As you walk past the library and Chautauqua Hall, the rest of the circular drive is lined with historic homes in virtually every style available. Grab a guided map from the library to understand the significance of each one and spend the afternoon strolling through time with this unique set of historical homes.
Small Town Charm and Sophisticated Eats
All that walking works up an appetite, and several notable restaurants are in town. My first stop was at H & M Hot Dogs, Florida's oldest hot dog stand. The simple setup is not much bigger than a food truck, but it is one of the most popular spots in town.
Sweet Southern Comfort offers a variety of Southern breakfast items and a full bar for later in the day. It also boasts several historical pieces along its exposed brick walls. The pieces relate to U.S. presidents, including the flags flown on Ronald Reagan's Limo and John F. Kennedy's presidential seal. For dinner, stop by the lively Cafe Nola for authentic New Orleans Cuisine or the Iron and Grape for a sophisticated menu and a curated wine list. This restaurant is the first of its kind in the region, and it is hitting its stride as an elevated yet comfortable setting.
Florida Wine From Chautauqua Vineyards and Winery
Walton County boasts another slice of Florida character: the Chautauqua Winery. The vineyard has been producing wine since 1979 using estate-grown Muscadine grapes, including Noble and Carlos Varietals. The 50-acre vineyard and on-site winery offer visitors a chance to explore Florida's unique viticulture through complimentary tastings of both native and traditional wines. This was among my favorite stops, and I was impressed by the wine-making process that is putting Florida on the wine-drinking map.
North Walton County may be slightly off the main drag through the Emerald Coast, but it is well worth a detour. The backstories and history contained in this small area are nothing short of astounding. The best part is the friendly community. You may show up as a stranger, but you'll leave with a new set of friends. Local merchants and chefs represent this region well and are more than happy to share their local knowledge with strangers.
In essence, North Walton County embodies the best characteristics of "old Florida." It offers visitors a way to escape the noise and the crowds for a tranquil respite that promises a lifetime of memories.
