This Maine Scenic Byway Is The Road Trip Of A Lifetime

The Schoodic National Scenic Byway winds through one of Maine’s most picturesque coastal areas. As famous for its seafood as it is for its stunning scenery, this 29-mile road trip route along Frenchman Bay was once a vital link for some of Maine’s most remote fishing villages. Yet while the road now serves mostly as a tourist route, those same small communities continue to thrive, providing the country with everything from lobsters to oysters, cod, and haddock… and now, memorable vacations.

In addition to its close-up view of working harbors and that oh-so rugged Maine Coastline, the Schoodic Byway also provides access to the only mainland section of Acadia National Park. Better still, it’s a part of this dramatic national park that’s generally devoid of the kind of crowds you’ll find in other busier spots.

What makes this route a road trip of a lifetime? Albeit a short route, it makes up for it with its unique blend of natural wonders and Maine’s fascinating maritime history. The drive also takes you through areas shaped by the industries that helped build coastal Maine, such as sardine canning, granite quarrying, and, of course, the lobster fishery that still defines these towns.

Start at Hancock and Sullivan

Starting in Hancock, the first major attraction you’ll want to visit appears just off Route 1 at Tidal Falls, where one of New England's most dramatic reversing falls puts on a twice-daily show. The preserve, protected by the Frenchman Bay Conservancy, overlooks the Taunton River where it narrows between Hancock and Sullivan. Here, massive tidal shifts of up to 24 feet create a phenomenon that reverses the direction of the river's flow approximately every six hours.

The best time to visit is about two hours before or after low tide, when water surges through the channel, creating waves and whirlpools. At peak flow, the rapids are strong enough for whitewater kayaking. There’s an observation deck and picnic area where you can watch this fascinating phenomenon, spot eagles overhead, and even spot seals following the current looking for fish. The preserve also offers exceptional tide pooling opportunities at low tide, with the exposed rocks revealing colorful sea stars, green crabs, and periwinkles.

Sullivan itself retains the character of a classic “Down East” village, with Federal-style houses arranged around a central common, boasting views southwards across Frenchman Bay all the way to Mount Desert Island and even Cadillac Mountain. The town's granite quarries once supplied stone for buildings throughout New England, and remnants of this industry remain visible along the shoreline where cut blocks still bear marks left behind by stoneworkers during the 1800s.

Sullivan to Winter Harbor

Where Route 186 branches south from Route 1, the byway begins its journey down the Schoodic Peninsula, with an obligatory pit stop at the northwestern tip in Winter Harbor. This is the peninsula’s main hub, with restaurants, galleries, and shops located in buildings that once served the fishing industry. The pier is still busy, too, as lobster boats head out before sunrise and return in the afternoon with their catches. Time it right and you might see them unload. For a bit of whimsy, Winter Harbor 5&10, a classic old-fashioned variety store open since 1954, is a must-visit.

The waterfront also provides views of Winter Harbor Light, built in 1856 on Mark Island. Though not open to the public, it’s still in use and can be photographed from several vantage points along the shore. Oh, and bring your binoculars as the surrounding waters shelter numerous small islands that provide nesting sites for eiders, cormorants, and other seabirds.

Acadia's Quiet Side: The Schoodic Section

The byway's star attraction, the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park, covers more than 2,000 acres of the peninsula. After passing through the park entrance near Frazer Point, you’ll see that classic pink granite meeting the sea in spectacular fashion. The six-mile park loop road provides access to this dramatic coastline without the traffic that’s common in the main part of the park on Mount Desert Island.

Schoodic Point, the peninsula’s southernmost tip, is one of the best places to witness the sheer power of the Atlantic. Here, huge granite ledges jut into the ocean, causing spray to fly high as waves crash against the rocks, especially impressive during winter storms. It’s also a great spot for enjoying great views westward to Mount Desert Island and Cadillac Mountain, while to the south and east, nothing interrupts the horizon except an occasional passing ship or, if you’re really lucky, whales feeding offshore.

Keep an eye out for the trail that climbs to the 440-foot summit of Schoodic Head, the peninsula's highest point. Though modest in elevation, it’s worth it as the peak offers spectacular 360-degree views.

Prospect Harbor to Corea

Leaving the park, the byway continues through Birch Harbor to Prospect Harbor, where the last sardine cannery in the United States operated until 2010. The Stinson Seafood plant employed generations of local workers, processing herring caught by the local fishing fleet. Though the cannery has closed, Prospect Harbor remains a working harbor where lobster boats still outnumber pleasure craft.

A three-mile detour on Route 195 will take you to Corea, the most picturesque of the peninsula's villages. Surrounded on three sides by water, this small, remote harbor feels as if frozen in time, with lobster boats and their colorful buoys brightening the scene. The village consists of just a handful of houses, a small post office, and wharves where fishermen maintain their gear. It’s the kind of authentic maritime atmosphere you simply won’t find in larger towns and cities.

Final Word

If you’re looking for a truly authentic New England coastal experience, you can’t do much better than traveling the Schoodic National Scenic Byway. Along the way, you’ll meet people whose families have made a living from the sea for generations, and you’ll also have the chance to sample the best of their catches. To see the spectacular Maine coastline and Acadia National Park without the crowds or traffic, take this scenic drive for the East Coast road trip of a lifetime.