This Quiet Idaho City Is Hiding In Plain Sight
Placed perfectly at the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers in north-central Idaho, Lewiston quietly continues to serve as Idaho's only seaport, a surprising attribute for a port most people imagine exists in coastal regions. As an active riverine city with a population of 34,000, this charming city is situated in a valley below towering canyons, with barges passing through on a transcontinental route from the Pacific Ocean via the Columbia River. However, aside from being a workday center, it can also serve as a quietly efficient launch point into the canyons of the Pacific Northwest, accessible to all.
The Rivers and the Port
At an elevation of around 745 feet above sea level, Lewiston is one of the lowest-lying areas in Idaho. Being at this strategic location, with immediate access to two major river systems, Lewiston serves as a base camp for water sports, including float trips and whitewater rafting.
Both rivers have different recreational activities. The lower part of the Clearwater River features more serene waters, perfect for kayaking, paddleboarding, and steelhead and salmon fishing during their migration. The Snake River provides access to Hells Canyon, the deepest river-cut gorge in North America, complete with jet boat tours and rafting trips deep into an area where bighorn sheep roam on nearly vertical basalt cliffs that expose volcanic history over millions of years.
The Lewiston-Clarkston Valley stretches along both sides of the Idaho-Washington border, with Lewiston in Idaho and Clarkston, a sister city, on the far side of the Snake River in Washington. Activity at the Port of Lewiston brings in grain, timber, and other cargo barged up from Portland, making this a surprising maritime hub some 470 miles from the Pacific Coast.
Cycling The Levee & Beyond
The levees along the Clearwater and Snake Rivers feature over 20 miles of paved paths connecting parks, beaches, and access points to the rivers in the valley. With flat topography, these paths are suitable for all bicyclers and feature very few road crossings.
Road bicyclists will find a challenging climb up the Old Spiral Highway, an old road used to climb out of the valley, featuring a series of switchbacks and an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet over 10 miles. The latter part of this climb offers excellent views over the valley and into the Palouse Hills.
Where to Eat
Waffles ’n More operates in a simple dining space on Main Street, serving breakfast all day with generous portions designed to satisfy hearty appetites. Their offerings span a typical American breakfast menu with omelets, skillets, and pancakes. Still, attention to detail is crucial here, as evidenced by the simple yet delicious peppery sausage gravy over homemade biscuits. You can even taste the care in the side dishes, such as the hash browns and home fries, which are cut and fried on the spot rather than being poured from a frozen bag. Their lunch menu features sandwiches and burgers, but most plates will include breakfast items regardless of the time of day. You may experience a slight wait on weekends during the warmer seasons, when the natural wonders surrounding Lewiston draw more visitors.
Mystic Cafe is one of the gems of Main Street, situated in a remodeled 1926 coffee roaster building with original wood floors and separate dining rooms that maintain a cozy ambiance. The culinary staff utilizes local ingredients whenever feasible, including Columbia Basin beef, Pacific Northwest seafood, and Palouse lentils. The staff takes care to incorporate these ingredients into modern American cuisine that varies with the seasons. Dinner entrees might include lemon peppered salmon with couscous and vegetables, or a grilled ribeye with smashed fingerling potatoes and a selection of local greens. Wines focus on Pacific Northwest production, with seasonal samples offered alongside a rotation of regional craft beers from local microbreweries. Weekend reservations will go a long way, especially during the summer months when boaters fill local bars and restaurants.
Important Attractions
The Lewis-Clark Center for Arts & History houses regional arts and history in one facility, featuring both historical exhibits and art shows. The permanent exhibit features Nez Perce history, the Lewis & Clark expedition, and regional history related to river transportation. Temporary shows include artwork from regional and national artists. The center also contains a theater where performances and film shows are regularly held.
Hells Gate State Park, located just south of town along the Snake River, offers developed access to the river and its recreational opportunities with boat launches, a swimming beach, and a marina. Day-use areas in the park feature picnic shelters and grassy slopes that lead down to the water, while the campground offers sites for both tent and RV camping. Panels along a walking trail describe the geology of Hells Canyon and the life cycles of anadromous fish species. The state park serves as a starting point for jet boat trips into Hells Canyon, which depart from the park and offer half-day and multi-day excursions into the canyon.
A city like Lewiston does not need to trumpet itself as a vacation destination. It provides unwavering access to stunning beauty, showcasing the incredible resources of the Gem State. It has everything you need when you wish to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life and get lost (metaphorically) in nature. Idaho has a bounty of places to explore, and Lewiston sits right in the middle of so much of it, serving as an unspoken base of operations to discover all the state has to offer.
