Lane's General Merchandise store in the Calico Ghost Town in California. Editorial credit: Kyungjun Kim / Shutterstock.com

This Is The Ozarks's Quirkiest Little Town

Every region of the United States has a town that doesn't fit anywhere else. In the Ozarks, that town is Calico Rock. The place sits on a hillside above the White River in north-central Arkansas and keeps its own ghost town inside city limits. River bluffs run in so many colors that 19th-century French trappers compared them to bolts of calico cloth. A back-alley neighborhood downtown is still called Peppersauce Alley after the moonshine that once flowed there. A Warhol in a former bank vault, a hand-built Shawnee wickiup, the recreated deck of an old steamboat. By any reasonable measure, this is the quirkiest small town in the Ozarks.

The Calico Bluffs

Calico Rock, Arkansas
Calico Rock, Arkansas. Credit: Brad Sims via Flickr.

Incorporated in 1903 after the Iron Mountain Railway arrived, Calico Rock grew from a steamboat landing into a regional trading hub. It's the only community in the country to bear the name Calico Rock, and the name comes from the bluffs on the north bank of the White River. Wide bands of blue, black, gray, red, and orange run through the stone, the result of chemical reactions between iron in the sandstone above and manganese in the Everton Formation dolomite below.

Calico Rock is a gateway to the Ozarks National Forest in Arkansas, USA
Calico Rock, gateway to the Ozark National Forest, Arkansas.

Explorer Henry Schoolcraft was the first to describe the bluffs in writing after he passed through the area in 1818-1819. He coined the phrase "Calico Rock" in his published journals and it stuck. For the best view of the multicolored rock face, head to City Rock Bluff, a short walk from a parking area off Culp Road on the edge of town. The overlook gives clean views of the rock and the White River below.

Peppersauce Alley Ghost Town

Abandoned funeral home in Pepper Sauce Alley ghost town, Calico Rock, Arkansas.
Abandoned funeral home in Peppersauce Alley, Calico Rock, Arkansas.

Calico Rock holds the rare distinction of having an authentic ghost town inside its own city limits. From Main Street, cross the single-lane bridge over Calico Creek into East Calico, the original settlement. This was the rough side of town in its heyday. French traders and trappers traveling the White River stopped at the shanty taverns here. The local moonshine known as "peppersauce" flowed freely, and the area earned a reputation for brawling and lawlessness that kept respectable citizens on the opposite bank.

Office door in a ghost town called Pepper Sauce Alley, Calico Rock, Arkansas
Office door in Peppersauce Alley, Calico Rock. Credit: Bonita R. Cheshier via Shutterstock.

Over time, fires, economic shifts, and a westward move of the local population emptied East Calico. More than 20 original structures still stand, including a cotton gin, a funeral parlor, the old Ozark Theatre, a barber shop, and an electric power plant. There's even a 1920s jail that once held up to 20 prisoners in a single cramped cell. Walk the buildings on a self-guided tour, with directions and details available at the Calico Rock Museum and Visitor Center on Main Street.

Calico Rock Historic District

Calico Rock, Arkansas
Calico Rock, Arkansas. Credit: Marcus Thierley via Flickr.

After Peppersauce, give the living side of Calico Rock its time too. The Calico Rock Historic District centered on Main Street has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1985. Several blocks of brick and stone buildings from the 1900s and 1920s still stand, with many of their original interior features intact.

Calico Rock, Arkansas
Calico Rock, Arkansas. Credit: sheffieldb via Flickr.

The Calico Rock Museum and Visitor Center is the centerpiece of Main Street. The complex occupies two of the town's oldest buildings: the E. N. Rand Building (1903) and the Bluff City Bank Building (1896). Exhibits include a recreation of the deck of the Ozark Queen steamboat, a historic general store, and a hand-built Shawnee wickiup. The Windgate Art Gallery is part of the same complex and holds a collection of more than 300 paintings, primarily by local and regional artists, alongside select pieces and reproductions associated with names including Dale Chihuly, Thomas Hart Benton, Edward Hopper, Alice Neel, and Andy Warhol.

A Town Like No Other in the Ozarks

Calico Rock leaves no doubt about its place on the list. A ghost town inside its own boundaries, riverside bluffs that look painted, and a Main Street museum where a Warhol hangs in a former bank vault. For travelers who like a healthy dose of the unexpected, this Arkansas town earns the visit.

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