This Nevada Scenic Byway Is The Road Trip Of A Lifetime
Long before highways ever reached Lake Tahoe, the Washoe people had made this stunningly beautiful area of Western United States their home for thousands of years. “The People From Here,” as their name translates, called this beautiful body of water "the Lake," a humble name for what was the spiritual center of their world. This all changed in the 1800s as the first Europeans made their way westwards, leaving the Midwest behind and passing through lands traditionally used by the Washoe, including sacred sites like Cave Rock and gathering spots along the lake’s shore.
Today, the 28-mile Lake Tahoe Eastshore Drive follows this same historic path. Along the way, it provides curious travelers with one of the most scenic driving experiences in Nevada. Passing sections of Lake Tahoe's 72-mile shoreline that remain largely undeveloped, it’s a landscape that Mark Twain famously described as "the fairest picture the whole earth affords."
This spectacular route's designation as a National Scenic Byway is certainly well-deserved and recognizes not only its visual appeal, but also its role in connecting America's past with its present. Part of the historic Pony Express Trail, you’ll see markers along the route that identify former relay stations. These include Friday's Station near present-day Stateline, where riders (some as barely teenagers) exchanged their precious mail pouches (mochila) with other riders entrusted to deliver the mail to its final destination, whatever the weather.
So join us for a slow drive as we travel this Nevada scenic byway along Lake Tahoe’s eastern shore.
Crystal Bay to Incline Village
This must-travel National Scenic Drive starts in Crystal Bay at the California-Nevada border, near the former Cal Neva Resort. Built in 1926, this now-shuttered property was once owned by none other than the legendary Frank Sinatra and straddles the state line so precisely that the boundary runs through the now-abandoned hotel, right down the middle of its swimming pool.
Four miles south, Incline Village is one of Nevada's wealthiest communities, where lakefront mansions owned by tech moguls and celebrities are tucked behind towering pines that offer a modicum of privacy. A worthwhile detour here takes you up Mount Rose Highway for about four miles to a lookout point that provides a panoramic view of Tahoe Basin and its 22-mile-long, 12-mile-wide lake (so have your camera ready).
Sand Harbor to Cave Rock
Continuing south on Highway 28, you’ll find Sand Harbor just three miles past Incline Village and within Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. This collection of three sandy beaches ranks among Tahoe's most photographed locations, with water clarity here reaching up to 70 feet in depth. During the summer months, it serves as a stunning backdrop for the Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival (tickets for this popular event sell quickly, so be sure to plan well ahead).
Between Sand Harbor and the Highway 50 junction, the road passes Memorial Point Scenic Lookout and Hidden Beach, both quieter spots, while a slight detour leads to Thunderbird Lodge. The former estate of eccentric millionaire George Whittell Jr., who once owned 40,000 acres of Tahoe's eastern shore, was built in the 1930s in the "Old Tahoe" architectural style and can be toured. Highlights of this impressive mansion include secret tunnels, an underground card room, and the famous Thunderbird yacht house carved out of solid rock.
Where Highway 28 meets US 50 at Spooner Lake, you’ll notice a distinct change in scenery. Here, the road climbs slightly inland before descending back toward the lake through forests that once supplied lumber for Virginia City's once busy silver mines. Millions of board feet were harvested here, nearly stripping the slopes entirely before conservation efforts eventually allowed the forest to regenerate.
The Sacred South Shore
The drive through Cave Rock Tunnel indicates you’ve arrived in Washoe territory. This dual-bore tunnel—one 153 feet long and the other 410 feet long—was blasted through solid granite in 1931 and passes directly through De'ek Wadapush (Standing Gray Rock), a site that had been sacred to the Washoe for millennia.
For generations, tribal members had performed ceremonies inside the cave and consulted with water spirits believed to inhabit the lake, something the controversial tunnel construction stopped. It did, however, spark protests and debate about how Native American cultural sites should be treated, their degradation leading to measures and laws that now protect such important landmarks.
South of Cave Rock, Zephyr Cove offers an altogether different kind of Lake Tahoe experience. Home to the M.S. Dixie II paddle-wheeler, this bay serves as a base for memorable sightseeing cruises. The adjacent Zephyr Cove Resort is an ideal place to stay if you’re planning on extending your Lake Tahoe driving adventure into a multi-day experience.
Final Word
From whichever end you choose to start your Lake Tahoe Eastshore Drive experience, you won’t be disappointed. Whether you tackle it as a day-trip or take your time with a multi-day adventure, drive slowly and try not to miss a thing. From ancient Washoe gathering spots to former logging camps, and from historic resorts to some of the best swimming spots in the Silver State, every mile peels back another layer of the area's fascinating past. Sure, you could drive this outstandingly attractive 28-mile route in an hour, but take it from us: it's better to take your time, stop often, and enjoy how nature and history come together along Lake Tahoe’s stunning eastern shoreline.
